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If you have spark and fuel it should fire. Get some starting fluid and spray a good shot in the carb with the pedal depressed. Try to start it and It should get a reaction. It will either start for a few seconds and die pointing to a fuel delivery issue or it will back fire indicating a...

Does it throw a long spark? That's why I was interested in volts at coil. Weak spark.

I would use some starting fluid to see if it will fire or back fire. If it backfires suspect a timing issue. If it fires then fuel supply issue. More info needed, what ign. system are you using? What volts at coil when cranking.

That' ok I added a couple of letters in my post to make up for them lol

Pull the distributor cap and crank it to see if rotor turns then maybe tdc with #r1 plug out tof see if timing chain faile or jumped a tooth. With spark and fuel it should fire unless timing issue.

I just run the closest spade to a valve cover bolt with that regulator and square back alt.

Can you turn the engine with a socket on the crank bolt. I hate to be a pessimist but if the battery is charged and in good shape then it points to a mechanical problem. Changing the starters didn't change anything.

I had to take mine apart and reinsulate the wires. The insulation had disintegrated and wires were touching. Silicone worked and it Works fine now.

I'm thinking that you need to do a total amp draw test. Most older single field alts put out at max 35 or so amps. You may have an overloaded charging system where it has to max out just to keep up. I switched to the square back alts that put out up to 65 amps and found a transistor type...

I'm using a square back alt. for more output but I still have the original wiring but I think the regulator is not points. I also have the second field connector grounded to the V/C bolt. Lights are bright and works well.

I had a yellow Optima in the car for 10 years or so before any problems. I still use it when camping to power my led lights and still lasts 2 or 3 nights. I used to have the R/T backed into the garage with no access to the battery In the trunk sometimes for months when I lived in Corpus...

I think the power comes from the turn signal switch, I may be wrong though. What kind of car is it?

Thanks for that diagram texas69bee, now I see why I had the 4 prong resistor since I upgraded to electric ignition. I thought the extra resistor was related to the charging system. My mistake I plead old age, It was 25 years ago at least. LOL

The 4 prong resistor has different resistance if I remember correctly. top and bottom were different ohms across the units. It's been a while since I had my 70 GTX but I recall having a problem if the U shaped opening on the side was facing the wrong way. But in your case it worked as it was...

Is the Ballist resistor 2 prong or 4 prong? 70 and newer should b 4 prong.

I ran a yellow Optima in my R/T for about 9 or 10 years until it finally got weak. I still Charge it up and use it when I go camping. I have a 12 volt led light set up that lites up the campsite pretty well. They have gone up 70 to 80 $$ since I bought mine. Over 200 now but still worth it IMO.

Super glue or J B weld it back on. JMO

I bought a rebuilt points distributor for my 440 build just for ease of startup and breaking in the engine. Then put in a MSD dist and box. That way I knew it should fire if I wired it in correctly.

Sorry the 4 speed information wasn't in your first few posts

Sounds like the neutral saftey wire is not connected to the original starter relay. I ran mine like cunnra bird and knocked off the terminal to the neutral saftey and had a similar problem. Hope that helps.