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I do. Already checked that out. Just was shorted a flywheel when I got the car.

Just picked up this flywheel. Pretty sure it’s for a steel crank internally balanced big block. It is 143 tooth. Just wanting to make sure before I have it resurfaced to use in my 68 roadrunner. Thanks in advance.

My shop is dry. Has a dehumidifier as well. Yeah I am just going to keep doing what I am doing and turn it over every few months and then put it on a run stand before I am ready to put it on the K frame and see how it does. Engine has no oil in it and hasn’t since it was built so that’s a good...

So the numbers matching engine for my 68 RR that I am restoring was rebuilt by an excellent engine guy a long time ago. How long I have no idea. My best guess is probably 15 years or maybe longer. Anyway I took my endoscope and looked at all cylinders and in at the cam. It’s clean as a whistle...

K.G. Engines if you are still in the market. He CNC’s mine. Does amazing work.

I have a really nice 146 tooth big block flywheel but I need a 143 tooth one. I don’t think the 143 tooth ring gear would fit if I go that route but wanted to ask and see. Hoping I am wrong. Thanks in advance.

It wasn’t started as one but if it nets me a nice handle I’m good.

Been trying to find a B body non console handle. I will find one so that’s no biggie. Just curious what experiences people had with the conversion shifter

Trying to find the Inland handle in decent shape has proven to be a challenge for my early build date 68 RR but I want it to be correct so that’s what I want for it. Brewers offers a Hurst shifter modified to work with the Inland handle so the supposed hatefulness of the Inland isn’t an issue...