Search results for query: *

I think you are reading it wrong I think it’s 11-20 like the poster said above. Here is a great tutorial video I found. The X in the number is used the same way as a dash is.

I agree on that. Just thought it would be cool if it’s the original one to the car just to keep it.

I have determined that my carb is the one that came on my car already and is date code correct. This fuel pump was laying inside the car when I bought it and still has turquoise paint on it so I am thinking it’s the original unit. Here are pictures of all the numbers I have found so far. I don’t...

I have determined that my carb is the one that came on my car already and is date code correct. This fuel pump was laying inside the car when I bought it and still has turquoise paint on it so I am thinking it’s the original unit. Here are pictures of all the numbers I have found so far. I don’t...

You are probably right. Any way to know what year it is?

A little help would be greatly appreciated. Pay no attention to the wrong color it’s painted. What is the date code on this housing. Reads like 12-1 to me but the X is throwing me. It is on a matching numbers engine to a 12-11-67 built 68 road runner

Yes it says Red. Engine, transmission, radiator, driveshaft, wheel, wheel cover, and a couple others. There wasn’t a lot left but a little. It’s better than none anyway.

The build sheet codes and the writing on the deck lid being as this was a Lynch Rd car.

They have been a huge help to me the last week in helping validate my 68 RR four speed post with A/C and helping me decide my partial build sheet. One of the coolest things is that we determined it came with body colored wheels with caps and redline F70’s. The previous owner said it had always...

Thanks. I appreciate any info I can get.

Can’t find anything online that tells me what these wheel and wheel cover codes are. Anybody know? The car has the Lynch Rd tire paint marks still on the deck lid so I know it had Redline F70 tires. Just trying to see if it had dog dishes or road wheels on it. Or point me to an online source...

Oh I agree totally. That’s why I am going to put someone smarter than myself to work.:thumbsup:

Buy it. I just bought this 68 and it was a hell of a lot more expensive than that one. But it does have a clear title, is a four speed, and is a factory A/C car with the numbers matching engine and transmission. It’s no cream puff but it’s all there. Plus the car came with a new one piece floor...

Thank you so much for this info. So if a 68 383 with an auto and A/C is a 710 the 711 should maybe be the 383 manual with A/C considering the non-A/C car numbers are only one number off. I think I am going to get in touch with Dave Wise and try to put his knowledge to work on this. Again, thanks...

RM21H

What does that code mean though?

Thanks. I assumed it was B5 but it is sure a gorgeous shade of blue inside the trunk. Seems brighter and deeper than a B5. Fender tag is legit just pieces of rust scale. It’s that bad. It looks to me someone decided to sit a battery on top of it at some point. It’s toast.

I am just gonna restore it and enjoy it. Not aiming to sell it or anything.

Car is unrestored and never painted or anything so I would say it is. Back seat has never been pulled until I did it. I know it’s a B5 blue with two tone blue interior post car. Four speed with factory A/C.

Fender tag is so rusty there isn’t left legible. Hoping to find another sheet in the car but doubtful. It’s a 68 post with factory A/C and a four speed though.