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If you can get this down there use it on everything.
It's high pressure, high temp and water proof.
It is also compatible with all other greases so using it in prior applications will not be a problem.
You will actually save money buying only one type of grease.
Valvoline makes a green synthetic...
Don't beat your self up.
When I was working with a disable wife getting in a rush and effing up was standard practice.
I'm retired and if I rush still make mistakes.
I just spent 1000 dollars on a leather recliner that I didn't really need because of a mistake.
I can use it, sure.
But....long...
Last USA Moog I got were from Ehrenberg via ebay.
NOS? IDK.
But hard parts I like to buy local over the counter to see them in hand.
Order at auto store.
Unfortunately that my not be an option for the OP.:(
I hope this is one of those 1 in 10,000 cases.
I've never had any service issue with poly LCA bushing.
I uses them in daily drivers and uncounted miles.
One car for 25 years.
Rubber does fail as well.
Quality on everything isn't was it used to be.
I try and get USA made Moog.
Just as an example.
Yes, gear oil will leak because that's not what is supposed to be in them.
They came with grease in them and gear oil was to "service" them.
I've rebuilt them which is basically just taking apart and cleaning them.
They are not hard to do .
If anyone wants to try.
Be very careful and just don't...
My best guess on the confusing text.
(Assuming you have the proper race/bearing set.)
The FSM is usually a one size fits all on this type of thing.
Covering more than one type of car.
Alternative theory which may be more likely?
"Drive flush" is a first step.
Meaning it's not cocked...
So, "original" doesn't matter?
I just went through this on a 67 B body.
A Diplomat master cylinder will work OK with a 1.031 bore.
(But you would need the adapter to go aluminum)
But I was unhappy with the A body disk and that master.
I would recommend upgrading to the 11.75 1978 Cordoba disk...
Exactly.
In an auto not so much.
But it's a 4 speed.
The driver may be inexperienced with it.
It's been said that a E brake is more important on a 4 speed for the obvious reasons of starting to move on a steep hill.
Perhaps in traffic with cars close behind you?
I also did not call it a...
I remember welding it to the new floor piece using the old drivers floor as a template and feel sure I got it in the correct place.
Now I'm looking at it and noticing it angles through the bracket instead of going straight through the bracket.
Maybe someone can look under their car and confirm...
On my daily driver, I've got no "master" tooth in the steering wheel.
I can tweak it if necessary. (Not twerk)
But that's not the right way.
Is your steering wheel that far off?
You can eyeball the tie rods on yours and adjust it, and you may get the toe right.
But probably won't get it right...
I'm not sure if there are any brass parts in side that.
There probably are.
But be careful with ammonia cleaning of what you THINK may be brass.
I've found anodized aluminum that will fool you.
Not a good thing.
Ask me how I know.
(Either that or the aluminium was discolored by brake fluid.
Not...
That looks like a later combination valve.
If so, front disk supply from the master cylinder (from the rear reservoir) goes in that top brass screw in fitting.
Front disk are supplied from the two adjacent ports to the top valve connection.
As you are looking at the valve mounted in the car, the...