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If I understand the guru, mismatched resistors are another good reason to get rid of the ballast resistor with a FBO box.
Failed resistors are infamous.
I know that doesn't work for everyone, but I've have daily drivers that have been on the road non-stop for 20 years with those boxes.
Nothing...
Old one needed replacing anyway.
So, am I missing something?
Casting has retaining tabs
Or if the bulb goes bad it is an 80 bulb for a new one.
I like to run LEDs so I was going to change it out before installing.
Mopar Distributors and Ignition Controls for Street-Strip-Motorhomes
I drive my cars and reliability is the number one priority.
I've got a laundry list of why this ECU and coil is a good choice.
IMO the best choice. Plug and play.
Other things are either over kill or a PITA.
No need for...
Spend the money for FBO is my experience.
I've run them daily for years with no issues.
Thousands of miles.
Reliability is most important to me.
I've been stranded by after market systems and every other MOPAR style ECU is a a gamble.
A factory style distributor is fine.
Halifaxhops sells fresh...
With the supply problems we are lucky to get anything from the vendors.
What a nightmare.
I've bought some quality stuff from Vans.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/fuel-tank-rubber-problem.159323/
At least it HAS a roller.
Every later A body one I've found in the last couple of...
I guess points work 99.9999 percent of the time if you take time to fiddle with them on a regular basis.
I prefer to put something in that allows me to daily drive my car without having to do that.
For 99.9999 percent of my miles so far.
But I'm funny like that.
Post 2.
Stay away from...
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Yes, pricey compared to junk.
And EBooger sells generally good stuff.
I had an MSD in an E body.
It stranded me one time.
Running a stock distributor.
What do you do when your are far , far from home and and gremlins happen in an aftermarket system?
After that I ran that car with auxiliary...
The duel resistor is only for the obsolete 5 pin ECU.
Replacement ECUs will be 4 pin and use the single ballast resistor.
However all new replacement ECUs that I have found are "junk".
Auto parts store ones even have "fake" transistors on them so they will look "correct"
There is only one that I...
I wouldn't think so in a factory configuration.
I assume you are going for that.
Then you are only using two things differently.
The temp and oil pressure, right?
Here are the prints I drew up for a heavily modified 67 Charger (a much more complicated car).
As you can see only two things go to...
It is good to solder wires before inserting them in slots if possible.
Especially delicate wires because is makes a solid tip to insert and holds up under use and will not leave stray strands.
One small step extra.
I can tell everyone that I had a 318 A body that came from the factory with the reluctor harness constructed backwards.
It had run like since 1973 with no problems and was not found till I rewired the engine compartment a couple of years ago.
That's all I know.
I'm going to the kitchen and...
Your problem MAY not be an ECU.
It MAY be a resistance issue.
It MAY be a wiring issue.
ECUs
I've been through them.
I had a new "orange" one that lasted about a week.
At the same time I was running a junk yard pull "orange" ECU for years till it started acting funny.
Car was missing at idle...
Disclaimer.
I'm looking at my custom simplified prints for these circuits that I've drawn up from factory 73 and 67 prints.
And they seem the same basically to each other.
You year car probably will be a different switch, but from what I see the principles are the same.
In other words, the wires...
I don't think he has points
What we need to find out is if the coil positive has voltage present in "start".
In a ballast resistor system the start position bypasses the resistor to give full voltage available at the coil to start. When the key moves to the run position the circuit changes to...