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Can you post a close up of the damaged end? If you have fabrication skills, a MIG welder, etc. it may be possible to repair it.

Based on your description of the vibration and sound you get at WOT, it sounds like it might be improper driveline phasing. Especially if this is happening at a particular speed and RPM. Just food for thought.

Thanks, I see now that it is vacuum activated. Not a dashpot. I was incorrect in my earlier posts.

Sonny, was that device on your carb when you sent it in for rebuild, or did the rebuilder add it? I know some came with an electrically energized solenoid to bump up the RPM when the A/C was turned on. But the one you have pictured appears to be a mechanical type dashpot. I say this because I...

It's there to cushion the closing of the throttle once the driver lets up on the accel. pedal. I think the mindset was that it would reduce emissions.

None of my Thermoquads have this dashpot but near as I can tell from your photo images I'd say your's is mechanical in how it works.

A mini shock absorber for your throttle.

I've had it for years and don't remember exactly where. It may have been through "Year One", or a tool store locally.

This tool has worked well for me.

This thread got me thinking about the spare separator I bought clear back in 2011 at MATS. I just went out and opened the box to check it out. I found that the return nipple is not restricted as it should be. It's opening measures right around .170". Now I'm wondering if it even has the...

There's a chance that the throttle shafts bores are worn causing a vacuum leak. They can be drilled and re-bushed by a good carb guy.

Just for the record a '69 Road Runner should not have a vented gas cap. The tank should have two internal vent tubes that vent to the outside.

Here are a few things that come to mind; Rubber chocks for the front tires, and jack stands to go under the rear axle housing after you get the rear jacked up. Siphon the gasoline out of the tank, and cap off any openings (overflow/vent nipples, etc.) if possible before attempting to remove...

Under the 1406's accel. squirter is a brass weight, and below it is a check ball. Make sure that steel ball is in place. Recently I went through a 1405 for a friend. His small block had a stumble from too much fuel coming out of the squirter when throttle was opened. I found that the check...

Here's the sleeve I mentioned earlier. I've seen a few people not have the correct cable and actually clamp down onto the housing instead of this sleeve. Also included some other images that may clarify a couple things.

Here's a little different set up on the 360 that's in there now but you'll get the idea. But again this is just related to the kick down (throttle control) rod. Not the main issue you're having.

The thing is, the way it's attached now it's acting as an throttle return. That smaller spring is there to pull the rod forward. I'm thinking the spring should go from the throttle stud to the other end of the rod, just above the pivot. I'm not suggesting this has anything to do with your...

Pretty sure it should go the other direction - back to the pivot (if it's the same set up as what my '68 Coronet 318 car came with).

I'd like to see a better photo image of where your accelerator cable is clamped. Doesn't look right to me in the photo you posted. Looks as though it's clamped right on the housing itself instead of the metal sleeve. If it's clamped on the housing itself that could cause the cable inside to...