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Yea it'll come apart. Depending how the practice run goes on the core, it may get a bench rebuild and swap in. Sucky part is, I want to convert the van to a 5 speed...just can't find a console, or pedals. I have a shifter and trans and flywheel/clutch... Who wants to bet I find what I need at...

Anyhoo, this is in my '90 Voyager turbo and I figured I'd ask here as well as on the turbo sites, to get a consensus. 3 speed non-lockup. Van had an issue of wrong-gear starts for a while; would always start from a stop, in second. I'd drive around the problem by manually putting it in first...

I have both already. Just debating which one I want to build. I also have an '05 5.7 with 36k on it, from my totalled (one-owner) Magnum R/T that I could build. It's been indoors since the car was totalled in '08. But that entails massive accessory changes like power steering, front end...

I want to say mid-high 200s...but I'd have to check. It's only off the road due to rust. Highly unsafe. Replaced with a $2500 2008 5.7 Durango.

The wagon ran low 13s back in the day with the crate motor, a reverse/manual 727, 2400 stall, and the factory 3.23 SG rear. All the weight is in the right place - behind the axle. Weight transfer ROCKS. 1.60 60' times all day long on street tires :thumbsup:

If I recall, the Magnum crate motor dropped right into my 318 wagon back in the day. Of course, it ripped them apart in short order.... :thumbsup: Good info, all. Thank you! It's about time I get this party started...I figure, the car is sitting on stands in the garage...it can sit there just...

So, I have one of each. This is for my 72 Satellite wagon. Current motor in the car is a mild LA 360, unknown specs. Dual plane, manifolds not headers, no crazy cam, iron heads but I'd have to check for casting numbers. Runs....meh. I could build this up. Or, I have a (admittedly high...

pinion gear is in the freezer, in hopes of an easier inner bearing removal....none of my pullers will do the job, any suggestions? maybe just a chisel between the backside of the gear, and the edge of the bearing, to try and push it up and off? I have a press, for installing the new one (which...

I am NOT doing a 44 conversion right now. I know the difference. I know that a 35 is "weak". Right now, I don't care. This is not a rock crawler, or a mud buggy. It's a toy. Summer convertible, winter bad-weather go-anywhere toy. I've had crawlers in the past (YJ, XJ) and I know the difference...

I just started a new gig and am still figuring my budgets at the moment. Repair is the only financial option (well, the only smart one) at the moment, until I know where I'm landing income-wise. And used D44s aren't cheap around here. And if I swapped it, I'll likely have to re-gear the front...

So, not a B body but it is a Mopar - my 06 Wrangler. D35 rear was roaring, so I pulled it open. Ring and pinion teeth look pristine so I'm going for bearings. Outer axle bearings (they're easy and cheap), inner pinion and outer pinion (common fail point). Carrier bearings look and feel great (my...

I do swear by seafoam for my fuel(s)....mowers, snowblowers, chainsaws, motorcycles, anything sitting off-season gets a dose and every single one starts up after months of storage, like it was run the day before. Might look into that. Thanks!

My '70 Charger (numbers-match 318, never opened up as far as I can tell) has an intermittent lifter tap when cold. One lifter, driver side bank, flat refuses to pump up for about five minutes - until the engine is at FULL temperature. Doesn't happen every time, either, so I'm guessing it's some...

No...I put 17s on it to see how it looked, since they were already on my Satellite. They're - as I said in the original post - too big, but I may go with some period-correct original Torq Thrust wheels, either 14" or 15" (if I decide to change to disc brakes up front, for safety - currently 4...

My Satellite will be EFI...whichever way I go with it (stout LA 360, or finally finish that damn Gen III conversion). With the built 727 and factory 489-case SG rear, it already has more strong-parts in place for it. The Charger...is honest. Real. Original. I like that. And, its sentimental -...

Well, it's a good thing it's not theirs then. I'll do with my car as I see fit. That wasn't my question anyway, but thanks for chiming in.

Pass. I've run enough boost on other cars, with just a hair too much timing...and melted pistons in the past. Not looking to do that on the 500 :)

Good point. Probably more low-end torque, than hi-RPM HP. Just usable power and torque for a cruiser. Again - it doesn't need changes. I just get bored in the off-season and look for excuses to bust knuckles and waste money...typical single-guy-with-classic-car syndrome :rofl:

Yeah, the rear decodes as a 2.x ratio. I may swap it, I may leave it. But the flowmasters will likely go. Soon. Like, once I'm able to drive it enough to get really sick of them.

Someone already put duals on it, I guess the factory single rusted out at some point. Stock manifolds, duals, and Flowmaster 2 chambers that freakin' DRONE (might be swapping them at some point). At least the turn-down tips look correct-ish. I put my 17" ridlers on it a couple weeks ago - look...