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I need to get one first. My car has a 2 speed motor in it. (along with wire-nut electrical repairs underhood - I'll be putting a new harness in this winter as well!)

Cool - so it's a doable process and I won't be pissing $80 down the drain to get a "parts-not working" unit. Main things are money...and patina. My entire engine bay is original - all I did was clearcoat it, and I really don't want a brand-spankin' new wiper motor perched on the firewall!

So, for someone with mechanical aptitude and electrical knowledge, how impossible is it to rebuild 3 speed wiper motors? My '70 Charger is a 3-speed wiper car...but someone put a 2 speed motor in it at some point, so now, no matter what switch position I use, the wipers are going 110mph. Not a...

I inline-solder my connections, with a fixture made from an old metal coat hangar and two alligator clips. Basically, a coat-hangar version of this: I bend about 6" of hangar into a U and crimp the gator clips onto the ends. I keep my clips about 3" apart. Strip back the wires. Put heat...

Yep, I remember clipping my ground to the screws that hold the circuit boards to the chassis on my '70 Charger cluster. Using LED lamps, I had to bench-test everything to make sure I didn't have any installed 'backwards'. Incandescent bulbs don't care about polarity, but LEDs do. I knew I had...

I had the column out of its mount (still hanging, but not bolted up). I had the ashtray and its base (including the lighter) out. I've had the wire cluster out from over the e-brake pedal - that's just the headlight relay, and the horn relay, on my car. I had the signals on while I was hunting...

I can HEAR it clicking....but I'll be damned if I can FIND it!! '70 Charger, factory a/c car, standard rallye gauges (non-working clock, not a tach). My turn signals work...but they blink annoyingly fast, so I want to replace the flasher and try to get them to a normal speed (yes, all lights...

Thank you, I'll try that. Will it kill the lights-on buzzer too? I'll give it a shot next time I'm upside-down in the interior (have to put a new horn relay in as well, and a flasher unit - horn is dead, and the flashers are superfast...). Thanks!

I need to dig through my FSM and the wiring harnesses, but does anyone know of a way to do this? I like the lights-on warning (key off, open door to get out, and the buzzer goes off as a reminder - helpful, since my daily driver has "automatic" headlights and I'm getting lazy as a result)...but...

I'd have to dig for what part number I got for the LEDs, but I just found on eBay the corresponding LED for whatever the bulb type was (197 or whatever). White. I did not replace the dimmer, I bypassed it with a jumper so when the headlights are on, the dash lights are on full. It's a good...

Roger that, thanks everyone! Something else to hunt for while I wait for the winter road salt to go away.... :)

So...if it works now, is there a chance it has the wrong linkage in it as well? Or would this 2 speed motor attach to the 3 speed linkage/trans? I can't imagine - given the history I know about the car (strictly "used car" mentality, not "classic collectible") - that they would have gone to the...

Yeah, it's a 3 speed switch, has the right number of detents, and the broadcast sheet shows 3 speed option. Guess I need to get the right motor. Thank you!

Yes, theres a resistor Photo from pre-removal so I'd get the wires back in the right spots lol. As for the motor, I'll have to Google what they look like...not sure if this view helps any:

So, I'm working my way through the ....interesting... wiring repairs that have been done on my Charger prior to owning it. Wirenuts have NO place on an automobile.... I recently had the cluster out to replace bulbs and bypass the dead dash dimmer switch, and the wiring on the back of the wiper...

...unless you get an LED flasher unit that plugs into the factory harness. They are time-based, and do not reference circuit load at all (the only "downside" being, no bulb-out alert).

I made a stand for soldering, out of a pair of alligator clips and a bent coat hangar. Bend the hangar into whatever shape you want (I have two, actually - one has a section I can use as a "base" and put something heavy on it to hold it in place, or I can tape it down; the other is a simple "U"...

I picked up #89 bulbs at WalMart the other day. Physically smaller glass envelope, but you can't tell through the red lens. Correct brightness to match the other running lights. The other option would be similar to what the OP said and add 2 1157 sockets, but for me, if I did that...I'd wire...

I put #89 bulbs in my inner sockets recently, they give the correct "dim" running light level. I couldn't find anything else that would go there, with proper wattage (the car had incorrect 1156s in it when I bought it, looked like 2 brake lights were stuck on). You could go LED, but then...

I have an oil gauge, not a light. That's why. My turn indicator may not be gray, it may be something else. And, I may be blocking - that whole operation was such a pain in the a$$, I just don't want to remember it!