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Cass from Dr. Diff got back to me and they can be replaced by 82 Diplomat rotors.

I bought the 10.95" Dr. Diff front disc conversion kit with drilled and slotted rotors a couple years ago for my 69 RR and am in need of new rotors. Is there a specific rotor/company/OEM part I should be looking for to replace the ones I have? Anyone know?

I got them turned by my friends friend. One was warped a little, one was OK.

I did find a guy that lives next door to a friend of mine that owns a brake lathe that said he'd do them. I'll find out today if they are done.

So I pulled my front rotors today because I had a pulsing in the pedal on a hard stop and I thought maybe they were warped. (I have drums on rear). I took them to an O'Reillys because they said they could turn them. I finally had to call them to find out the status and they said they couldn't...

Is this a 15/16" alloy master with black reservoir? If so get the Dorman replacement caps.

Get the Dorman replacement caps to fix the leak. And rebleed the master cylinder and rebleed the brakes. Air in line is what causes the "pump up the brakes on start up" problem. I had the exact same problems after converting to discs on my 69 Roadrunner. I felt like I bled the brakes about 30...

I'm wondering if these are going to leak when I put pressure in the master cylinder when bleeding the brakes.

I'm attempting to pressure bleed my brake system and wondering if there is an adapter cap for the 15/16" bore aluminum master cylinder that Dr. Diff sells. The caps that come on this unit don't seal very well. Any input?

Dr. Diff

I just got done with the same system and finally got it figured out. I assume you changed to the Dr. Diff aluminum master cylinder? If so, you used the adapter plate that goes from four to two bolts attaching the master cylinder. That adapter plate is about a quarter inch thick and the pedal...

Did you get fluid out of rear brake cylinders when bleeding? Sounds obvious but have to start somewhere.

I'm replacing my oem brake push rod on my 69 RR with an adjustable one and want to know if I need to remove the master cylinder to replace it. Or can I do it from under dash without removal. I'm trying to avoid bleeding my brakes again since I feel like I've bled them about 10 times since I put...

And first post.

Shocks are motion dampening units. They won't raise or lower the ride height, unless they have springs on them, as your old ones did.

So I put a Dr. Diff disc conversion on my 69 Roadrunner along with a new master cylinder. The push rod is too short so the pedal is low. I'm going to put in an adjustable push rod in and I'm wondering what length it should be before I put it in. Or do I just guess and take it out and put it back...

Did you replace lines? How about the flex hose at the rear end? That hose can deteriorate and get plugged. Happened on my car. Did the brakes work before you started your project?

I bought that kit for my 69 RR last summer and it worked great. It comes with the parts needed to convert your manual adjusters to auto adjusters. Keep your adjusting wheel and spring if you want to keep the brakes as manual adjusters.

So I'm gonna answer my own question. Yes, you can still have air in the master cylinder after bleeding brakes multiple times. I bled the MC yesterday and got a few little bubbles out. But that is all that it took to firm up my brakes. I get pedal at about half way to floor and it doesn't go down...

Here's another question for you. Is it possible to still have air in the master cylinder after I've bled the brakes multiple times? I did bench bleed the MC before I put it on but I didn't see a lot of bubbles come out when I did it so I'm not sure I did it right. Thoughts?