Search results for query: *

I went with the hybrid coupler kit also from Bergman also. Installation tip; your steering column is the collapsable type, least my 73 is, and it will need to be loosened up. Mine was frozen/rusted in place and when I finally got it moveable , installation was a breeze.

Just change the seal on your input shaft. I did my last one with box still in the car. If you can split the steering column at the coupler and knock the steering shaft back inwards just enough to pull out the old seal and slip on a new one. Pretty sure got the last one from NAPA.

I put on the Borgeson kit and do like the results. While I still have the stock exhaust system in use I am planning to install headers in the future. Many have said the smaller Borgeson unit helps a lot with header clearance, if you plan to go that route later on.

I would have to look at my alignment sheet but I think he got the most camber at + 2.6, or there about. With the adjustable ones they recommending + 5 to 6, I think. I assume you are referring to elongating where the lockdown bolts are on the frame. And , no, I have not thought of doing that...

Hi Guys, I ordered an adjustable set of upper A arms from Peter Bergman that I understood would fit my 73. He just informed me his will not fit. I had looked at several units from various sellers and most say for 68-72 b bodies only. As you can see in the pic the stock 73 A arm to frame bar...

As you can see, the Borgeson unit with the no cut, direct fit coupler is short by 3 to 4 inches to reach colume shaft on the 73. Appears I'm gonna have to adapt their Helm joint coupler as well, unless Peter has a better solution . Its good to have patience when these challenges arise......

Yes, BBD, I installed a new coupler kit, fresh lube. When I had the motor out , k member out for rebuild, I stripped, cleaned, painted the engine bay and underbody. I replaced EVERTHING I knew of to bring the car up to OEM specks. When I was younger many times I did not have the time or funds to...

Tie rods were replaced as well as the idler arm. I prefer Moog parts when possible but remember the idler arm was not Moog. Not sure what brand, prolly chinese , but , stock. I just assumed the rubber k frame bushing were a normal improvement design by the Chrysler engineers. Not sure how...

Yes, 73s have rubber bushed k member to frame bushings, and that very well may be whats adding to my "loose" feeling in the front end. Guess I want the best of both worlds, great handling and minimum vibration feedback. May have to readdress this in the near future.

I pulled the k member and rebushed all with new, OEM replacement parts. All new bushing for upper and lower control arms, new ball joints, even k member to frame bushings. Just wanted to start with a fresh, OEM front end and see from there. I did install KYB s on the front and now understand...

Guys, just got my first b body big block on the road a few weeks ago and it drives/handles awful . I went with a stock rebuilt gear box and original to the car, Federal ps unit. Even with the best alignment possible , driveability was crap. This is a 73 with big tires but my 72 small block with...

Thanks much MG, just what I was looking for. This is my first big Mopar that I want to be a constant driver and just today found a shop that says they are set to do our older cars. Plan to meet their guy this week and wanted some specs as a start. A good article , thanks for the post.

Guys, just got my long time project 73 running and on the road. I reworked the front suspension with new OEM parts. Now in search of the nearest alignment shop that can work with our 50 year old cars. I am running 235-60-15s on the front with a slightly lower than stock ride height and am...

Great thread John and thanks YY1. I , too, am looking for a complete rear bar set up for my 73 also. A PO has replaced the original 8 3/4 rear from a non rear sway car and I need plates and all. Good info to know that up thru a 79 will work, would that be any b and or C bodies would fit.

My 73 has the same style as your replacement box. I wonder if your 73 was assembled early and they were using up old stock or could a PO have installed the early box. My 71 had its box in the trunk when I got it and that box looks like the 73 unit. I just have not seen a box that looks like your...

Booste Dewey did my last one as there were no available rebuild units anywhere to had at the time. But, if I thought I had all the right rebuild parts , I would attempt a rebuild myself......

I just changed one in a sb Challenger and was able to do it all in the engine bay. Was able to pull back the coupler box enough to get old seal out and new on. Prolly a no go if a big block.....

Up date. I got the old input seal dug out using an awl. Tried drilling a small hole to use a screw but bit kept running to the side, even after use a punch. The new NAPA seal, #6141, was driven in uses a deep well socket. Seems to fit well and hopefully will seal well. My O reilly guy got me...

Ok, got the one seal my NAPA guy had listed, its # 6141 and appears to the correct seal for the upper or input shaft. May be a few days till I actually do the install...will let you know for sure if correct. We found what we think is the correct one for the lower pittman arm shaft seal and it s...

Well, that would be good info in I can/could get it out with a readable number. Seeing one first would help with the removal, as I am thinking I shall destroy it getting it out. The service manual lists a tool for removal/install while still installed in the car. Doing a net scan with that tool...