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Thanks for the input. Yes, the upper ball joints had no rubber left on them I'm told, and the tires had really bad camber wear. I had to replace them too. And yes, they did do an alignment. Drives much better now, and at least I'm not terrified that the front end will go out from under me...

I haven't had any front end work done in years, so I don't have any good frames of reference. I was recently quoted $850 parts/labor to replace upper ball joints and upper/lower control arm bushings on my 75 plymouth fury sport. The front end has been vibrating badly especially on the driver's...

Just wanted to give an update on this issue. I took the column apart down to the lock plate. I replaced the upper bearing. I did not see anything else that was broken or loose. I put everything back together and still have the problem. I had someone turn the wheel for me while I watched the...

I did some more testing on it today. The wheel makes a scrubbing sound when I turn it. When I turn it completely from side to side it also makes a knocking sound. both sounds appear to be coming from the column...behind the blinker switch and before the ignition. Horn and blinker switches...

More slop in the steering.

No, it does not. - - - Updated - - - I should also note that my car is a console shift....so it has that special locker deal on the steering column...not sure if that makes a difference...probably not...it seems fine...just thought i'd mention it. I don't have tilt wheel either.

I was driving my 75 fury this weekend and I felt a small pop in the steering....suddenly the wheel became more difficult to control and made a scrubbing noise in the steering column when I turned. I was able to get it home...but it was pretty unnerving as you could imagine. Any idea what...

I have a floor jack and need to lift just one wheel (or corner) at a time. So I don't want to lift at the center of the rear axle or k frame because I'm not putting it on stands and no I don't want to use the bumper jack. Where are the best spots? I'm afraid I'll bend something.

Ok this is frustrating. I did not think they were interchangeable. Rock auto and other parts providers dont specify one or the other. I chose single because the picture looked like the correct one. The double looked much fatter than what was on it.

I go to order a brake booster at my local parts store for my 75 Fury (318) and they asked me if I needed a double diagragm booster or a single. the pictures of the single booster looked more like what's on the car so I selected that...now I'm not sure sure. Anyone know for certain?

After replacing my master cylinder and booster I noticed that the brakes are very soft...seem to be slow to grab. I'm wondering if I need to replace the calipers or if its a simle adjustment. There's no "bite" to the braking....just very very soft and slow to stop.

I need to replace the booster and master cylinder on my 1975 fury 2 door. I'm thinking that this should be an entirely bolt on operation...no special procedures....would you agree? Just unplug the wires...unbolt and yank off the old assemply and bolt on the new....then dump some fluid in there...