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"Engineered" for DOT 3 in the 60's, they were all Engineered for DOT 3 then, because DOT 5 was not commercially available. The military has used purple DOT 5 for as long as i was in due to it freeze/boil points. No, do not mix DOT 3/4 w 5. But... as long as it's not ABS, you can flush and run...

This doesn't help the dilemma, but some info on braking. When a tire is skidding, it is sliding on melted rubber, greasy, which is not slow. When going through EVOC (Emergency Vehicle Operations Course) and Bondurant n Bragg Smith school of driving, the most effective braking is "threshold"...

My daughter at 110 lbs can stop my '67 Coronet w manual front discs just fine. My Great Grandmother drove it from new until she passed in '94 w manual drums n she was barely 100 lbs. Never a problem. Don't understand why people have such a fear of manual brakes.

My '67 4dr has manual disc/drums. 15/16" master cylinder. My 110lb daughter can stop it easily w no leg strain. Pressure is developed w the proper master cylinder, brake lever length n pivot point for leverage. Mine was designed for manual so it works perfect.

What is your base timing at idle? I run 18°. Some run more, some less, depends on what your engine n cam like. You need a advance limiter plate. If you have 39° all in w vacuum disconnected, which is how it's done, then you have way too much. You should be down around 32°-34° all in. With an...

What is your initial timing w the vacuum line disconnected from the distributor, if you have one and the line plugged? It is possible to increase initial timing a bit and then reduce idle and gain a little vacuum.

Here's what I got from Cass on a disc front drum rear.

The aluminum w plastic caps dual master I got from Dr Diff had 9/16-20 and 1/2-20 on it. But I completely understand your dilemma when you only have 1 main line to the distribution block.

Well typically the dual reservoir master cylinder is Murphy proof as the rear brake line has a different size fitting than the front. Standard on all cars from the factory. My '67 drum/drum still had a distribution block under the master cylinder. I just changed to a disc/drum distribution block...

@Big Bad Dad has a point. Another could be that after 3 brake lines, it's not the brake lines, it's the seat on the caliper that is bad.

I don't race in any way, I just use a stock distribution block for front disc, rear drum from Dr Diff, it mounts low on the frame, stock lines work with it. My brakes work perfectly, just as Ma Mopar designed them. Pressure due to different bore, manufacturer of m/c is irrelevant, a distribution...

On my '67 Coronet, I've got room for days between headers and master cylinder, and the lines exit on fender side at a 90° going down to distribution block. And there is plenty of room on that side also. Is that Wilwood master offset towards the engine?

Here ya go. Mopars With Big Power Need Subframe Connectors! Here’s How!

Last time I called, about a month ago, he's only taking emails, no calls.

Should be self explanatory, you received new braided lines for front discs from factory drum hard line to disc caliper. So, you would need new drum hard lines if you're wanting to replace the hardlines.

I've rarely seen one needed when using the correct distribution block. They didn't come w them stock.

A believe a 73-75 A body power master cylinder will work. It is iron. I called Cass a few yrs ago to find out if there was a standard replacement out there for a disc/drum manual 15/16 n he said that should work. Will need the rubber retainer but otherwise should work w a manual brake push rod.

I've got 15/16" master on my disc/drum on '67 4dr Coronet n it stops on a dime. If I stomp, it'll 4 wheel lock easily.

Many people are

I would suggest the master cylinder. My '67 has a front disc conversion from Dr Diff. 15/16" master cylinder. It took many attempts, going around the entire car w flare nut wrench and just cracking and resealing all the brake fittings and adding residual pressure valves to front and rear brake...