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I liked what the 303 I linked to in the OP did for my seals.
I have a friend that swears by this stuff called Gummi Pflege:
1z Einshett Nextzett Gummi Pflege Stift Rubber Care Stick Silicon - 3.4 fl.oz | eBay
Apparently it's a big hit with a lot of european car brands.
1968 Charger, the R/T grill badge lost its nuts and came off. Luckily I found the emblem sitting between the bumper and the grill assembly, so that's nice. I read a couple threads about reinstalling it, having to at least partially disassemble the headlight door to get it back in. I removed...
My car came with some gross hardware store screws for mounting the turn signals to the valence. Does anyone have pics of these installed with the stock hardware?
I would not use it on any exterior parts. It doesn’t wear well and you can’t clear over it like regular paint.
There are some people that have found some clears that only dull the chrome effect slightly, but it’s really for models and props, not stuff that sees real exposure to the elements.
Here's a side-by-side of a repop chrome radio bezel vs. the Molotow pen. They are as good as you will find. They Molotow stuff doesn't wear as well, but it's easy to touch up.
+1 on the Cerium Oxide, it really works. You can buy it direct from places like Amazon in powder form too (mix it with water) if you want to save a few bucks, just be extra careful not to inhale any.
I've used Sodium Hydroxide before, it will not mar the surface but it will need a bit of a polish, so just be aware if you are doing something with complex shapes or a lot of nooks and crannies.
Easy Off oven cleaner (the original) or ZEP Purple Degreaser are two common sources...
This stuff is good but not sure if/how it would cut through a thick layer of rubber.
https://www.pepboys.com/mothers-r3-racing-rubber-remover-24-oz/product/617921
The 2 on the left are for the center horizontal pieces, the taller one on the left goes with the spring clips. The far right ones have a bigger base and are for the outer curved trim pieces.
The only way I could tell which took the spring clips was to look for the witness marks on the plastic.
Car looks awesome to me! A little patina but not too much.
I agree it would be impossible to correct those areas without it standing out. Unless your car will see a lot of weather I’d leave it that way.
Thanks guys, I played with my search terms and came up with these, I guess they are called 'push nuts'
https://www.autozone.com/nuts-bolts-and-washers/push-nut-assortment/dorman-help-assorted-push-nuts-10-piece/82345_0_0
Does anyone know a source for these?
I've seen a couple threads mention these, but I can't seem to find a source for them. I checked my local hardware store and online and can only seem to find threaded ones.
Paint update! It's REALLY red! It's the same paint code and I opened the old can that the previous owner supplied to check, and they were quite close, but wow it will be interesting to see what it looks like when I unmask and see them side by side. I'm not worried about the color, I just hope...
I used SPI epoxy primer and according to their site anything less than 7 days and you don't have to scuff. They recommend waiting 16 hours before applying filler and 48 hours before applying primer.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job
I will be spraying it back to red. :)...
I was able to use 2 mil plastic sheet to cover most everything but did use aluminum foil too for tight areas. It's much easier to work with than the blue tape. Super helpful because it's so thin and conforms easily to any curve. If I had to do it with my engine in I would be using a lot of...
Thanks to everyone’s encouragement, I sprayed SPI epoxy primer today. I used a 1.4mm gun with around 30psi at the gun and after an initial rookie mistake I mostly got the hang of it.
First batch I didn’t mix the solids in very well and it was very thin. Luckily I only mixed a small amount...