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Not sure why there's a pissing contest in here. When doing a single wire, wire it to where your biggest consumers are wired so that it will sense the true load. Most of the time that's the big stud on the starter relay or a dedicated junction box you install. Do not wire to the battery without...

All I can add is I'm still using a 20 yr old classic fast sequential mpi efi and I've had to call them a few times over the years and they've always been willing to talk and let me send it in even though they don't officially support it for many years now. I haven't called lately however. I may...

Wasn't the OP's problem but will second the check your cables. Original starter cable in my fury looked fine from outside, but had the same barely start when hot even with a mini. Turned out that cable was almost powered corrosion inside, the copper had disintegrated.

Junk yard units for me. I did have to grind the case of the starter for my fury

Interesting, a huge classic industries catalog came yesterday and their description is the clearest description of the 2 wires

Yes they are suppression core and listed as copper with a spec of 5000ohm/foot. I didn't actually expect such a difference in the 2 wires. Whether it matters to my engine was the question but in this case $20 delta does buy a different product.

To be clear that photo is just to show the setting, it's sitting there open not measuring anything

It is 11, but on the 20k scale, so that's 11,000 correct? My spiral core measure 1-2.5 in this scale and the suppression core measure 11.

Measuring it the same as the other wires

copper core

referencing this thread https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/my-charger-seems-weak-this-year-part-1-ignition-system-check.220759/ based on what was available in stock I bought the classic yellow/orange boot Accel super stock suppression wires, replacing a set of Accel super stock...

it's got an orange box ECU and a MSD blaster 2 coil. They are both a decade old. I don't have spares of those to swap in quick unfortunately. The plugs are clean, I was actually surprised they were 5's. It pings on 87 so I have to run 93 so I think you're right on staying with the 5's. I did...

Trying to go through the subsystems to see if I can find the cause of a general weakness all around. So I started looking at ignition: 1. Cap and rotor do have wear but nothing I think should be causing problems. I'll probably replace since that's simple and affordable. 2. I tested continuity...

I've got one from the junkyard in 1999 that's still working... Bought another one used at the nats in the mid 2000's. Both were oem.

I've used a couple $35 minis and they've been just fine. I personally have a 383 and 2 440's with them, none of those blocks needed grinding. The 383/a500 combo is the one that the back side of the snout needed ground where the oe starter had fit.

I usually buy used mini starters so warranty is pretty limited concern.

Yes I have had to grind on the starter nose before on some, others not. Don't sweat it and give it a grind

Have you read Darius's build thread and all the trouble with oem harness?

XR7 but turbo charged

The big thing to insure is that you have an ignition driver and coil meant to run at the same voltage, e.g. stock stuff running at 9v or aftermarket running at 12v, and then either ballast resistor or no.