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Lend him your thumb !!

The clips are made of spring steel so they will flex for installation and removal. There is no "trick", you just position the clip so the tips are under the flange of the stud then you push the clip over the stud. It goes on from the side of the stud, not over the end. Sorry that's the best way...

Without knowing the history of the car, what springs were on it and what's on there now its hard to determine what happened. If someone in the past installed S/S springs, they have a shorter front segment and would have required longer brackets. Then if you installed stock springs without...

What is "bedding" ?

They use seam sealer to seal quarter panel extensions on b-bodies as well as on the seam between the dutchman and quarters and also on the drip rails. It doesn't pull away there.

What's wrong with it getting hard ??? And it comes in a tube to use in a caulking gun.

I know what you're trying to do but I don't think I'd completely fill the whole perimieter - maybe just the lower portion so water doesn't puddle and sit in there. I think seam sealer would be the best bet.

I believe that ring compresses in that application. The goove is in the tailstock. Pin-nose pliers work just fine.

You're correct. The slot in the bearing would be used if the bearing was being installed on the input shaft - the snap ring would be sandwiched between the retainer and the case - preventing it from moving in or out.

The way you were planning. Assuming you were planning to cut through both pieces at the same time..

My attempt at putting a floor section in that way was a total failure.

You can't turn the motor without taking it apart. If you try turning it at the arm end you'll just **** it up. To "properly" test the motor you have to hook it up according to the FSM.

If rain were the only thing to worry about !!!

If you can't loosen up the pivots, why not grind off where they attach to the arm, pry the arm off and try to press the shaft out. You just might be able to clean them up enough to make them useable again. You could possibly resleeve them with a bronze bushing. Weld the arms back on. Y'know ...

Hmmm ... I think the elongated hole in the arm is rounded at one end so it can only go one way.

Just reach up under the dash with a wrench and undo the nut. It has a captive locking washer so once you break it loose it will come off by hand. I think its a 1/2" nut.

The photo is not of the motor ! Put those nuts back on.

Either - nut or clip. Nut is probably easier from under the dash. Snug the motor back down first so its not fighting you.

A longer front hanger moves the spring back. Drilling a new pin hole only moves the axle and won't affect the rear shackle. Shock rubber mounts are only there to insulate sound, not to provide any additional movement. The thickness of rubber isn't sufficient to provide that much movement.

Not a big deal