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Call Lunati

If you feel that may be the issue disconnect off the carb and actuate it by hand and check for a bind you actually need to isolate and know exactly where the bind is occurring determine whether it is the trans or accelerator and then determine what needs to be corrected

check out the link

You may need to correct the geometry of the linkage because your carb sits higher on the manifold something like this you may have to do a bit of research but here is a start http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-440-Edelbrock-Performer-RPM-Manifold-Throttle-Cable-Bracket-w-3-rod-KD-/222512873503

What engine is in there what intake are you using

I suspect you are just not calibrated

if you suspect a ground issue just connect a ground wire directly to the fuel nipple coming off the sender if it now reads correctly then you would be right a ground issue if still doing the same thing you are not calibrated correctly

Your gauge and wiring are fine. You can take the one unit in your hand attach a ground to it and the other to the wire to the sender and do a sweep test if fine you must perform your own calibration I must do the same thing to mine to get it to read correctly I will be bending the float rod in...

Lol working on mine now same thing take your sender wire short it to ground should read over full if good like belle said will need to adjust the arm on the sender not looking forward to guesstimating where it should be just adjust the float arm do not putz with the internals run the risk of damage

Use needle nose vise grips block off the vacuum supply to the booster and see if it stops

Nice job bee I will have to do mine in the near future what did you do for the red thanks

Nice job I like the fact that you still use the double belt set up with out much alteration

I like original but your choice has the system been open to the atmosphere ? if not you are fine replace the receiver dryer and expansion valve change your oil in the compressor to the modern pag oil you can use the 134a and you are good to go

Lack of lubrication everything is dried out you may not need rollers but a really good inspection is due do not force the window it is not fun in there you may be able to get in there and lubricate each of the glides and tracks as well as the regulator itself

Valve guides or seals usually smoke during decel

Just index the adjustable caster and camber bolts before removal and put them back in the same positions and you should be close to perfect

Classic Industries has all of them

check that big red wire that goes to to the bulk head connector they burn once in a while and to the gauge that gauge must operate for the system to charge

check the coil could be going bad seen this before if you have points check them also the only way the timing chain can jump if the cam gear has plastic teeth

compression stroke 2 valves being closed means nothing you must be on the compression stroke with the 2 valves closed - - - Updated - - - remember the crank turns 2 times to the cams 1 time also please check that you have the firing order going in the right direction as the distributor...