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Well that's kind of the point. The only reason why I have the msd box is because it was on it when I got the car. I did have an issue at the dyno of it breaking up. But I believe it was a plug issue more than the distributor. It doesn't bounce around, mech advance all in 35 degrees advance...

I am asking the hive mind when do we switch the distributor, coil, and ecm box out? I have an accel super Coil, MSD 6AL and proform dizzy, accel Ceramic plug wires. do I upgrade the dizzy now? It starts, runs and pulls pretty decent for a driver. The coil/ rotor in the photo have about 1000...

Well final update here, as it seems to be fixed. It was a wire that was cut at some point some time ago. It went from the bulkhead connector to the battery wire. Not sure how long it's been cut but that wire was the cause. It goes up to 14+ under driving conditions and at idle with the twin...

A little update, fused link was popped, and a wire on the ing switch was bad. it ran awesome for about an hour then popped the fuse and died. Battery was weak and it was a brand new battery. So we charged it all up let it sit and idle and it popped the fuse and died again. Looking for the...

Never knew that. Turns out it was a power wire from the ignition switch out. We lost power there tightened up the connector and boom. Only thing now is my reverse lights are always on when driving. But this trans is buggered. The pan is FULL of the glitter of bad things

Sounds like the power wire from the fused link to the inside dash was loose. It's been repaired and fired right up. Still no hazards but all other lights work. I'm guessing the relay is missing. But I have both turns on their own

Yes I have the battery here because I wanted to trickle charge it since it was "new"

We did a lot of looking at the firewall wires and nothing stuck out as hot or melted, no signs of it either. I can't check anything until Monday unfortunately because it's at my cousins shop and he's out of town for the weekend. There wasn't even a flicker or sound of anything just straight...

The photos are clearer on my phone I'll upload them to a google drive folder and post a link

I'm pretty sure that is my link, it was blown, we figured from arching the starter, and possible that it popped again.

I did an image search and found what it's location is and it was checked The fusible link was replaced at some point and we did check it, it used a barrel fuse and it is good. It had no change.

I did not check that and honestly I didn't see what looked like a fuseable link. but would this stop all electrical in the car? Edit note: I was thinking of the ballast resistor

We did not probe the internal box, I'll add that to the list, thanks!

ive had a fight and a half with my car and this is the last hurtle. We event to crank it over to check oil pressure and oil it up before start and there is 0 electrical. We did have to replace a few wires that there brittle or corroded. Here's the info I have tried so far... 1)New battery...

This thread can be locked if the mods want. I got a solution and posted along the way so if another user has this problem they might be able to work through it Thanks for all the help and support! I'll be sure to keep posting

I got the car running and down the road!

According to proform the air gap for a magnetic pick up/reluctor wheel is 0.008 and 0.010 No new update right now been too busy with work. This weekend for sure

The reluctor wheel was much farther away than what the old distributor had. It was adjustable, so I adjusted it to 0.010 like the old one had. Then we found that the firing order was all sorts of messed up. Straightened that out. When I installed the new distributor I pre indexed the...

Correct I tried all those and no dice

The resistor is bypassed, new plug nothing.