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Pulley came with a box of Coronet parts, no #s. Mopar part?

I have an aluminum radiator in my 62 Dart, stock fan, no cooling issues. Not sure of the brand, inexpensive aftermarket, looks stock, fits very well. In my 383 a-body, I have the factory bb radiator, Hayden 2947 low profile fan clutch, Derale 18" fan, 180 stat, no shroud, no room for a shroud...

No, it is the one for the actual control part. Heater valve pipe to core o-ring, iirc I found multiple replies on a number of threads with various o-ring sizes to use. I believe I ended up just sourcing one locally or in my stash that fit.

The large O ring within the valve is NAPA 6601000. The heather control valve to heater body gasket does not exist, I made my own. DMT (Detroit Muscle Tech) makes everything else for the heater, including the firewall O ring foam pieces.

Are parts available to rebuild these? Seems it only needs a seal inside.

The description in the Cool/Heat damper section is correct. The "HEAT" and "COOL" sections have the in/out reversed. An interesting system for sure, any that relies on vaccum can be challenging. I understand some 50s cars had vaccum actuated wipers, sounds fun.

My red stripe hoses are connected where the red arrows are in the pic, not sure if these are the plunger sides. Link and info look correct to me. Red stripe is vaccum on mine, and each hose only has vacuum when certain buttons are pushed, sometimes for more than one button, as I described...

Just tested my 64. The defrost works fine, the actuator moves fully in and out when going from defrost to something else and vice versa. The firewall inlet opens with authority, and closes slowly but surely. The heat actuator, front one, pushes out no problem and seals. When going to off or...

Best I can do with the parts I have out of my 62. My 64 is all hooked up and hard to trace.

Because I flipped it to take the pics, and the diagram shows the plug coming from the left, it would be:

Isn't this the map? 1-3 are the 3, 4-7 are the 4.

:eek:

To clarify the front actuator, the door you can see, in is fresh air, first pic door open to incoming air, out is heat to your feet, second pic door is closed to incoming air forcing it through the heater core. For defrost to work, this has to be out/closed as well.

Yes and yes.

Fixed.

The rear left one, in is defrost, out is heat. The flapper inside redirects the air to the 2 tubes for defrost. It actually flows up inside the cover, not pictured. Bottom pic, 4 screws hold defrost flapper. The front one on the left opens and closes the foot or lower vent for more or less...

There is a tiny nipple next to the larger one for the brake booster, within the same fitting. Here's a pic of my poly that shows the booster line but the small nipple is hidden. Sorry, best pic on my phone.

I couldn't agree more. I think I got lucky somehow, and I'm thinking I won't have the same luck with my b-body when I get it together. These in depth threads with pics are invaluable. Which leads me to wonder what the potential or possible causes are for higher temps. As far as AFR, I've...

Hayden clutch, 18" Derale, stock water pump, 180 stat, stock big block 22" radiator, no shroud, no room for one really, all in a big block a-body. Used to have an old school flex fan and would get close to 200 on 90+ days in traffic. That fan/clutch combo sucks air like crazy and now it stays...

Old thread - my Sunpro temp gauge probe is too big to tap the intake. Any other ideas? I've seen an aftermarket thermostat housing with a sending unit port on top but have been unable to actually find one. Trying to keep this inexpensive as I already have the trio of gauges, but for some...