PLEASE HELP!!! Heater box motor names

[Bob Jordan]

The door that you can NOT see is the "defrost/heat" damper

 

[matthon]

Yes and yes.

 

[Bob Jordan]

@matthon - thank you. I could find a lot of info on the A/C cars but not enough on the non A/C system. The FSM has tons of detail for A/C but almost nothing on non A/C. I will try to have it all back together by tomorrow and then will report back on function. All the vacuum motors work in both directions and I just had the switch rebuilt by Anthony Powell so it should all work!!!

 

[matthon]

To clarify the front actuator, the door you can see, in is fresh air, first pic door open to incoming air, out is heat to your feet, second pic door is closed to incoming air forcing it through the heater core.

For defrost to work, this has to be out/closed as well.

 

[Bob Jordan]

OK I am still in trouble here. I relied on this article (below) for the numbers on the connector ports and to know which motor they go to. Unfortunately now that I have it ALL BACK TOGETHER I noticed that the picture of the switch in the article is UPSIDE DOWN relative to how it sits in the car. What I need (idealy) is an indication on a picture like this of which hose goes to the diaphragm side and the plunger side of each vacuum motor. Having a mini nervous breakdown here after zero sleep
https://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-62-65heaters.html

 

[matthon]

 

[Bob Jordan]

View attachment 1247254 View attachment 1247255

Yes that's my connector. You helped me identify the right names and functions of the three vac motors. I just can't tell from the sketch which one goes to each motor. I know that white stripe always goes on the diaphram side. I need a map from the rear view of the connector (like my picture) that shows where each hose goes to each motor.

 

[Bob Jordan]

I can pull a vacuum on it with switch hooked up. The doors open and close but not for proper function in each mode

 

[matthon]

Isn't this the map?
1-3 are the 3, 4-7 are the 4.

 

[matthon]

Because I flipped it to take the pics, and the diagram shows the plug coming from the left, it would be:

 

[Bob Jordan]

If I use those labels and that map the doors do not operate properly. So far I can get the outside air inlet door to operate properly by hooking up 4 and 6.

 

[matthon]

Best I can do with the parts I have out of my 62.
My 64 is all hooked up and hard to trace.

 

[matthon]

Just tested my 64.
The defrost works fine, the actuator moves fully in and out when going from defrost to something else and vice versa.

The firewall inlet opens with authority, and closes slowly but surely.

The heat actuator, front one, pushes out no problem and seals. When going to off or cold it doesn't really move. I can flip it open without issue though.
This may be due to the fact that the linkage was bolted on the door wrong for who knows how long.

All 3 actuators though work great when putting vaccum to either side.

In my case, either the switch/vaccum lines are designed this way, where the defrost is the only one that opens/closes like it has full vaccum to both sides, or my switch is weak on the inlet and weaker on the front heat vent.

Either way, it works fine for me, no complaints.

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks from me matthon.. as I need to sort my '64 Dodge 440 out myself as it only blows cold air at our feet! Suggests the outside air door is stuck open...

 

[Bob Jordan]

Are the plunger actions in each mode as described in that 62-65 Mopar article linked above correct? My outside air door moves quicky, the defroster plunger moves quickly, but the heat cool door seems to move the opposite of the description - even with the white stripe house on diaphragm side and red stripe hose on plunger side. I need someone to confirm that the plunger directions in that article are correct. Thanks.

 

[Bob Jordan]

Last question for tonight - Is this what the floor door should look like in "cool" mode? It only goes here in "cool". Thanks!!

 

[matthon]

My red stripe hoses are connected where the red arrows are in the pic, not sure if these are the plunger sides.
Link and info look correct to me.

Red stripe is vaccum on mine, and each hose only has vacuum when certain buttons are pushed, sometimes for more than one button, as I described above.

Red stripe hoses suck hard enough to stick to my finger.
White stripe never do, seem to be more for keeping out atmospheric pressure, maybe, or my switch is bad but still mostly works.

If a red stripe hose can move the actuator when attached to either side, with nothing on the other, then I would guess something wrong with a white stripe hose or the controller.

Push the buttons and note when each red stripe has vaccum.
Think it through, heat would need to open the firewall vent as well as point the heat vent down and close the defrost.
Defrost would need the same, but open the defrost.
Cool would reverse the heat vent, close defrost, and open firewall vent.

Outside air would be with the vent pointing straight out.
Heat would be with the vent pointing down.

 

[Bob Jordan]

So the picture I posted of the lower door pointing straight out is correct for "cool" mode?

 

[Bob Jordan]

I think if you review the 62-65 article and look at the plunger position (in/out) definition for the forward most door (the door you can see) it is wrong. My door goes to the correct position but the plunger in/out definition is backwards. I spent 6 hours trying to figure out why the plunger was not behaving before I realized that the door itself was going to the correct position.

 

[matthon]

The description in the Cool/Heat damper section is correct.
The "HEAT" and "COOL" sections have the in/out reversed.

An interesting system for sure, any that relies on vaccum can be challenging.
I understand some 50s cars had vaccum actuated wipers, sounds fun.