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Planning to run Driven HP2, when this: Goes back into this:

Thanks, I wasn’t sure how to check them. I didn’t want to poke around too much trying to test them. I’m just going to dig in and replace the seals and go from there. Thanks to everyone for your help!

I took one valve cover off this afternoon. There are no visible pieces of valve seal on the heads. I can’t see through the valve springs to see the condition of the seals. A few pictures:

Thanks MarPar. The knock I hear is lower-tone than lifter tick and lasts a few minutes. I also hear the lifters ticking right after starting, but that disappears after 10 seconds or so as you would expect.

Thanks Geoff. You are correct, they are cast, I knew that, yet in my op I typed forged, my mistake. I appreciate the extra info regarding the piston fit and ring gap. I was not aware of either.

Oil is 10w-30, changed annually with about 2,000 driven per year. The knocking only occurs during the first few minutes after starting cold. Once the engine is warm the knocking disappears. The car runs great otherwise.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and complements, all are much appreciated. Do you think the knocking I am hearing when the engine is cold may be related to worn valve guides?

I am in need of some advice on '67 383 4BBL fully rebuilt 15 years ago with approximately 30,000 since rebuild. I am seeing a good amount of blue smoke upon startup and lesser amounts of blue smoke until the engine is warm. Once the engine is warm, I don't see any smoke. I assumed valve...