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I don't know why I assumed your car was a '73 Charger, but obviously not since you don't have the calipers mounted to the rear, and also obviously not since QA1 doesn't make tubular UCAs for the '73+ B-Bodies and said they never will. I had to go with Firm Feel for those. So, what year is your...

Just for the record, I'm changing my stance again. I think TheRamManInc's YouTube video is wrong. I asked him if he would verify, though. We'll see. Anyway, gonna pop them out and do it with the extended rubber lip out. So, Team Outtie now. lol

The C-body guys be having the same dilemma, lol... https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/proper-orientation-of-inner-oil-seals-for-wheel-bearing-hubs.41486/

OMG, I about died when you wrote "popsicle stick." This is the exact reason why I don't throw anything away because I always find a use for it. Okay, fair enough. For some reason, I thought you actually had to FILL the entire cavity, not just coat the edges, but then now that I think about it...

Nope. As stated before, the 11.75" rotors have their outer wheel bearings recessed further in than others, and when installed, the dust skirt perfectly butts up against the wheel bearing up/race. I did it this way, and the FSM text seems to back it up, and so do the youtube videos. I'm not...

Wait a sec now, just for the record, I'm Team Innie. I just caught that OP (aka "Chargered") stated he's using the "larger diameter bearing rotors," so I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that he's running the 11.75" 1976-up B-Body/1979-up R-Body unicast, ribbed, and reinforced "cop...

Page 22-7, Wheels-Bearings-Tires, of the 1973 Dodge and Plymouth (I have both) Factory Service Manual, tends to agree with everyone else has said with a very vague diagram. To clarify, the first, second, and fourth pictures, the area where your thumb is, that's what everyone is saying should...

I should add that I have Firm Feel's tubular UCAs installed. Maybe rather than bring the LCA up, I should remove the rubber bump stop on the UCA and bring that down. Didn't have to do it on the other side, though, so not sure if this is the right approach...

Okay, sorry for the huge delay in progress... I am mostly done, but, on the driver's side, I can't seem to lift the LCA high enough to allow the LBJ bolt to go through it so I can put the nut on it (I could probably but a jack under it and it would go through)... Strut rod arms and tie rods...

Thanks, bud. Also, "That's what she said!" (I know, overused joke so it's not even funny anymore?)

Thanks for all the support, everyone! Pics/progress soon... I had to make the decision as to whether to use the new-in-box Hotchkis quick-ratio pitman arm and idler arm I got super cheap off E-bay a while back... I guess I kind of chickened out on it because the damned pitman arm doesn't have...

Old thread, but for the record, if you update to larger tie rods on your 1973 B-Body, the shopping list is: MOOG ES440S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve (x2) MOOG ES352R Tie Rod End (x2) MOOG ES355RL Tie Rod End (x2) The actual threaded part that goes into the drag/center link is the same (0.5...

Thank you for this! How many Mopars have you owned? My first car was a '72 Charger (318), second was a '69 Satellite, had two '70 Super Bees, another '69 Satellite, and now my '73 Road Runner... I THINK that's all I had... Had newer cars, but always had an old Mopar for some reason... I guess I...

Thank you, sir! Will do this tonight and update you in the morning! Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE, I just needed a bit of confidence. I think maybe "the Rona" is affecting my brain lately!

Thanks for being nice and spelling it out for me! ... I can update you (PM or here) on how it went... Everyone has their specialty. I've never done this before. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, not an excuse for ignorance, but just because I have a bit of a learning disability, and it takes me a...

Proof is in the pudding, bud... Try me. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, and I mean EVERYTHING... I'm a computer guy, but learned to weld, sandblast, use a press, etc. I'm TRYING, man, I'm TRYING... But no need to think you'd be wasting your time... I have a good heart, a willingness to learn, and...

Well, if you re-read the original post, "idiot" DOES have a FACTORY service manual... And not the bootleg CD, but the REAL tree-based book! But again, does not explain the order of things when EVERYTHING is off... Maybe "idiot" is overthinking all of it and needs the experience/confidence, or...

So some "idiot" removed every part of my entire front suspension a "couple" years ago (engine/trans/K-member not removed), and now he can't figure out in what order to re-assemble. The car is a '73 Road Runner. Frontend is on jack stands. This "idiot" sandblasted and painted and/or RPM (Rust...

Now that is the best answer I've read in a while... Will use the washers! Also, at what point should I actually install/torque the threaded lower-ball joint; should I do it while LCA is off car, or with the LCA installed and torqued down so it "won't go anywhere" while I torque down the ball...

Thanks for the photos. The washer that came with the MOOG K719 threaded lower ball joint was just plain steel. The Chrysler manual does not show a washer, just the nut, and the installation instructions says to leave it out if it didn't have one... Hmm... Not sure why a washer is so important...