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Great input. Thanks very much everyone! I'm dangerous now!

I'm probably overthinking it. I sure understood their standard springs might not be adequate. It was just the fact that none listed the solid option 'pre-configured' got me wondering if there was something unique going on. For example a solid lifter would for some reason pound the seats out of...

I've not settled on anything yet. It appears every offering I've looked at is the same way. Most recent was Edelbrock for example.

I'll apologize in advance for what's probably a dumb question. I started assessing a refresh on my current 906 heads. Costs quickly got to the point I was thinking I should look at aftermarket aluminum heads. I'd need springs that accommodate .520 lift. That seems not to be a problem. The fact...

On any high dollar engine I can't imagine why you'd even wonder if you should. I always pre oil after something like that has been sitting a while. Being broken in is only part of the picture. I want to know all the bearing surfaces have a coating of oil before cranking it over to start. Peace...

I agree they're worth buying and that price is more than fair.

I also ran into this years ago and had the bushing turned down to fit the crankshaft hole. Ran that setup for many years with lots of abuse and never had a problem with it. Just double check that the crank hole is drilled deep enough to accept the full length of the transmission input shaft...

Cudachick knows her stuff. I ran a production powder job shop for almost 20 years. I guess I know enough to be dangerous. A couple things to mention: 1) Recommend blasting the outside of the pan for best long term adhesion. Don't get too aggressive with the media or the pressure though. 2) The...

I'm intrigued by the pinging issue. From what you describe it sounds like the original builder was anticipating the engine being soft off idle and through the gasket, cam advance and RV cam was trying to build some additional compression and torque. I used to do the cam advance trick a lot when...

Prismatic makes good stuff. I ran a production powder coating shop for almost 20 years and used that supplier regularly for specialty colors. RAL 5018 is a color that many powder suppliers would offer. The RAL series (RAL XXXX) is pretty well standardized within the industry. There are a few...

I gotta hand it to you. That's the 1st ad I've seen in years for a complete one! Every one advertised is missing either the nose cup or block plate. Both those items make one just shy of useless yet guys still want big money for them!

My personal feeling is easiest solution is switch to 63 to 65 V8 k member. You're going to want to consider heavier torsion bars anyway. Have fun!

I'm reminded of the old saying regarding the road to hell being paved with good intentions.

I'd do a fluid/filter change 1st thing. Most of the time that's cured the problem for me. When doing it check the converter to see if there's a drain on it.

I'd been searching a bit for a more positive seal method for the transmission fill tube. Never been a fan of the O ring approach. I'd found some other options on the forum and then discovered this setup on eBay. Priced under $10.00 from one supplier. Kit came a few days ago. I cut off the...

I've seen spark arc leave a mark like that. You should be able to see it clearly if you start it up late eve or when pretty well dark out.

Great idea to pack the axle bearings. They tend to be neglected. From the photo you posted things look pretty dry in there. Usually if the seal is going bad you'll have rear end grease leaking into the brake assembly and the brakes tend to get very touchy. It seems like a few guys have posted on...

If you're just working on the brakes there's no need to remove the hub. You've got the right setup to pull the hub, just be sure you removed the castle nut from the end of the axle first! Sometimes you need some heat to get the tapered axle to release the hub. If you want to pull the axle, there...

Good input here. We all forget sometimes that it's torque that really gets a mass going. Not likely you'll find many opportunities to really use the output of a high winding small block on the street anyway. Go with a torque powerplant. 440 fits the bill pretty well.

Nothing really special about that block it appears. I'd be inclined to find another block to build. The rust may be deep enough into the cylinder walls to exceed boring capability. I see you're in California. Around the midwest there'd be concern about the water having frozen in the cylinders...