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I rebuilt my front end about 8 yrs ago with poly lca bushings, no problems.

Having worn out steering components is dangerous. My advice, overhaul the front end or at least replace the components with the most wear to make the vehicle safe to drive. You can do a diy alignment and get decent results but a good alignment is not that expensive, and you can get it set to the...

I just put some on last week. Put them in a bowl of water and heat them up in the microwave, they need to be good and hot. Be sure you put grease on the end of the bar. It will take a bit of effort, but they will go over the end of the bar.

Try www.mymopar.com and look under tools/reference. I think you can get the service manual for a '73. '74 should be the same or close.

Most master cylinders do not come with the tube kit for bench bleeding anymore. Instead, they give you caps for the ports. Just cap them off and bench bleed as you normally would. It can be done in a vice of on the car. Just put the cap on and pump gently until all the air is removed.

You can bench bleed it either way. I usually install mine. Put the caps on the ports ( usually comes with a new m/c; some may have a bleeder kit that has a coulpe of small hoses instead of caps. Route these to their respective reservoirs ), fill with fresh fluid, install the reservoir cover...

If it is lined up and torqued properly, it will be fine.

Looks good in the photo. Tighten to the torque spec. for the vehicle you have. Probably around 150 ft. lbs. DO NOT use a hammer. You will damage the gear. Be sure you have the master spline on the output shaft and the pitman arm lined up.

The smaller, or primary, should face towards the front on both sides.

Yes, small shoe (primary) in front, large shoe in rear.

IIRC, the arms were toward the front to get started. It does take some patience to get it worked through. As YY1 stated, the bar will have to be rotated a lot, which is why the car needs to be on a lift or have the front jacked up pretty high. I started from the driver side, with the tire...

From the numbers it appears to be the correct application. The car has to be lifted a good bit in the front to get the bar through the k member.

Could be that the bleeder ports on the wheel cylinders are partially restricted or stopped up. I have had this happen, just remove them from the cylinder and clean the bleeder hole.

This is a drum for a ( please forgive me for saying this on here) Ford. CENTRIC Part # 12361002, about 25 or 30 bucks. I believe that I would get one and see if it could work, if that was my car. The bolt pattern is the same but the hub hole may be smaller. A good machine shop could probably...

Yes, that is the one. Sorry, I didn't check the bolt pattern though. That drum will not work for you. - - - Updated - - - What is the width of the drum, bolt pattern, lug and hub hole diameters? I'll see if I can help.

I had a similar problem finding front drums for my "72 satellite. All the literature showed an 11" but had 10" drums on the car. I ended up getting a drum for a "72 cuda that had the same measurements as the one I needed. The only difference being that my original was finned and the replacement...

This may help. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/?make=plymouth&model=gtx

Update-I finally installed a front stabilizer bar and the difference is amazing! Did a little research and went with the Hellwig. Great quality and fairly easy to install.

I have seen several kits that are available. Which do you recommend?

I overhauled the front end on my Satellite a few months ago and it drives well but it could handle better, especially when cornering. This car is a base model and doesn't have a stabilizer bar. The last Satellite I had 30 years ago was a Sebring and had a stabilizer bar. Seems like I remember it...