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With out a pvc, the breathers tend to "drool". I'd rather have the breather as an "air-intake", than an oily exhaust that vents "blow-by" all over the engine compartment. I'd try to fab something into the air-cleaner base from a pvc to try to provide a "negative-pressure" to the crankcase.

Re: mod the 383. My opinion is that if you want to stroke it, start with a 400 block. They are a dime-a-dozen, and you will end-up with a much sturdier base.

Just for perspective here, the newer Chrysler oil pressure senders trip at 4-6 psi. So is that really that bad as long as there is flow when rpm's come up?

I have had great service from Dennys. They even caught a mistake I made when ordering on-line, and e-mailing me that those parts wouldn't work with each other.

I agree with others on checking the timing. Depending on the year and CR of your motor, you may even have to go below the factory setting to account for today's crappy gas. Or try a tank of premium, and see what happens.

This chart work for you? http://www.mopar1.us/mill.html

First thought is did you REALLY set the T.Q. into its notch? The T.Q should be recessed behind the flange of the trans.

70rr-Brian is correct about the fan blade location. It should be at the rear of the shroud to create the proper "venturi-effect". Since it is past the tapered area of the shroud, my guess is that it is causing alot of turbulence, but not alot of flow. As far as the rad itself....I thought the...

This is interesting. JMHO, 440 Source heads are affordable, and flow well, but I just dont trust the hardware on them. So the cost of replacing with things you trust, cancels the price benefit.

Just use the valley-pan, and throw-away any gaskets they include with it. But I DO like to recommend using Permatex "Hylomar" around all the ports. It's a very thin sealant, but it works well for me.

Like I said, the Chinese stuff will be crap at first, but they catch-up FAST! I read posts of Pro-Comp rockers failing. Now, 2 years later, folks are saying they are having good results. I try not to be overly-nationalist. But remember, most of us rodders have been buying SHITTY Mr. Gasket...

Like i said, some of the Chinese crap is **** at first. But alot of the altered-crank guys get them from there. So what I am saying, is there is a learning curve on the cheap Chinese ****. Most long-stroke cranks come from there. But we taught them how to make good cranks. They are quick...

In all my years with cars, I can say I NEVER had a problem with a filter. Some folks have, but I have never used a high-pressure pump either. Only high-volume. Other than lube, the point of oil is also to carry away heat, or act as a cooling fluid. So the greater volume of fluid will...

X2. $100 buys alot of Wix filters. Do you have a problem with 10 micron particles? My re-builds run fine with Wix filters. I think using synthetic oil, and adding a rare-earth magnet in the oil pan will do much more for you. I place these magnets on my oilpan, near the drain. At the...

I have heard good things about the heads. But I have also heard that pro-comp valve-train hardware can be kinda dodgy. I think this is Chinese stuff. But they seem to make revisions, and improvements fairly quickly. So the **** you bought a year ago, might actually be improved by now. My...

You revived a dead-thread, but I have learned something since then. I only have Mapp gas available. I heated up the area, and the bolt as best as the gas could, then hit the bolt with a spray bottle of water. The goal being to cool, and shrink the bolt faster than the surrounding metal. This...

Bbody, I hope you still have the oil pan off! While there, I would plasti-gauge the rods and mains! A bad cam bearing is unlikely to loose that much pressure. But the bottom end......! I know you said the motor was pro-built. "Trust, but verify!" ,is my motto!

I think ALL 69 RR's should have 6-paks!!!

There are so many better made water pumps out there. I would ditch it, and sleep well! 440 Source has some good stuff, but they are in a learning curve. It's all chinese stuff, but it gets better over time. Their BB heads are great, the hardware in them is shady.

X2! This thing was raced. Is there any room for a rebuild, or is the block at the end of its life? Cylinder bore diameter would be a great check.