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So I am closing in on the finish line on my assembly of the suspension, engine, and transmission. I am considering rigging a radiator in front and putting a short exhaust on it and doing the break in with it on the dolly. Anybody ever done that before?
I have been dicking with this thing for almost a week. It’s the numbers matching original engine and transmission to the car. The original bell housing too. I know that because one of the dowels had pulled out of the block and was still in the bell housing. The engine came in pieces though but...
Ok, so my 68 RE was an early car with the Inland shifter. I got the hurst conversion shifter as I hate that gear crossing piece of crap Inland. But I want the car to look 100% correct. I have a mint Inkand B body non-console handle, but I swear it looks bent to my eye. It may look perfect once...
I have seen chrome and black breathers on 1968 roadrunners with the 383. Which one is correct from the factory? I have both. Just want it to be correct. Thanks in advance.
Just picked up this flywheel. Pretty sure it’s for a steel crank internally balanced big block. It is 143 tooth. Just wanting to make sure before I have it resurfaced to use in my 68 roadrunner. Thanks in advance.
So the numbers matching engine for my 68 RR that I am restoring was rebuilt by an excellent engine guy a long time ago. How long I have no idea. My best guess is probably 15 years or maybe longer. Anyway I took my endoscope and looked at all cylinders and in at the cam. It’s clean as a whistle...
I have a really nice 146 tooth big block flywheel but I need a 143 tooth one. I don’t think the 143 tooth ring gear would fit if I go that route but wanted to ask and see. Hoping I am wrong. Thanks in advance.
Trying to find the Inland handle in decent shape has proven to be a challenge for my early build date 68 RR but I want it to be correct so that’s what I want for it. Brewers offers a Hurst shifter modified to work with the Inland handle so the supposed hatefulness of the Inland isn’t an issue...