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1965 Coronet setup

the coroner 318

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Alright, ive got a 1965 coronet building up a 318 and 727 to put in, I Have two goals right now, (1) SPANK a 2011 5.0 Mustang with mild bolt-on's, (headers and intake). (2) Have fun!. I know a little 318 isnt going to be as ballsy as a worked 440, 413, 426 etc but i want to set up the drive train to take up that slack. I was thinking about 3:73 gears in the rear but that might be a little much for a 3 speed, i want to be able to drive this thing anywhere. Sugestions are all welcome.


-Chris
 
400+ rwhp is gonna be a tall order for a 318.

I'll be happy if my 318 beats a 2011 V6 mustang with 300 HP!!
 
its not going to be 318ci by the time im done with it,im thinking of getting it bored .060 over with some other goodies.
 
Don't bore it over if it doesn't need it. You're not going to gain much from it. There's a build online that my 318 was built following and it has to be making mid 300hp (ran mid 14's in my satellite with 2.73 open) and is fun as hell but I can't wait to pull it out.

Btw good luck beating the mustang my dad had a 99' that ran 11's and sold it once he saw I was going to be run low 10's.
 
I didnt want to bore it over either but it does need it, the cylinders are very slightly out of round, and has a ridge so im just going to bore it over. 400 RWHP is basically what im shooting for. I wanted some driveline/suspension set up suggestions. I realise there is always going to be someone faster than me, but i need to be at least as fast as a little 5.0. I know im not going to come anywhere near close to running with ZL1's and Cobra's but thats the NEXT phase of this build when, hemis and blowers start to come into the picture.

- - - Updated - - -

Kinda want to see what im capable of sqweezing out of my little poly. That and I cant let this be the next run of the mill build, not jut another 318 barely squeekin' out 300 horse.
 
Dump the 318 and get a core 360. It will cost the same to build and the cubes are free. OR, get an early magnum engine.
 
Dump the 318 and get a core 360. It will cost the same to build and the cubes are free. OR, get an early magnum engine.
Or come down to Jersey and buy my freshly built 383 would probably be cheaper then machine work and new parts. lol but if you're set on the 318 there are many builds out there. Here's a couple, although I'm pretty sure the numbers in these builds are on the high side.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0409_318_engine_build/viewall.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/mopar/0667em_mopar_318_engine/viewall.html
 
Hate to tell you this, but unless your lil' 318 is 370+ ci, I don't see you running with any newer 5.0 Mustang. I had a fully built SBF, carbed, professionally ported heads, .550 lift camshaft, etc. etc. and it still wouldn't run with the newer coyote power plants'. This was in a 3100 pound LX coupe with a full race AOD, 3200 9" Nitrous converter. You can build a serious chassis, but to make 400RWHP is going to require heavy forced induction in my opinion.. 500HP 318's are not too common. It takes a pretty seriously built 440 to make 400RWHP. You are going to have 3x as much in the 318, than you would have swapping it out for a 440 making similar power numbers. 440 will produce a substantial amount of additional torque though. Cubic inches are cubic inches. Go with a 400 block and a 440 crank. 451ci stroker. Will make plenty enough power to blow the doors off the mustang in a well built chassis and trans.
 
From reading your posts, I would suggest as Budnicks so elequently puts it "fill your library before you fill your garage". Just the fact you off the cuff talk about wanting to bore it......when bore size has a minimal effect on power. You wanna stick with the 318? Get a 4" crank for it and build a 390.
 
If I am correct you have a poly 318 big block.You are going to piss alot of money away and gain minimum.You will be better off doing a 440 swap from a early newyorker.
 
Serious Power for a 318 Poly, Tall Task

:iamwithstupid: HP is MPH really, Torque is what moves the car initially, Especially a heavy car... Not very many parts readily available... Anytime you hear or see the word Custom it will cost allot more... A "custom" stroker Crankshaft offset ground maybe, some "custom" size/length connecting rods & "custom" pistons, then probably the most important thing for the engine, would be the cylinder heads flow & valve size, a professional porting job & bowl work, with larger valves they are total crap in original configuration & sizes, even for just a slightly larger 318 @ 0.060" bore will still only be 326ci or so, "custom" ground camshaft, solid lifter or Roller would be best, adjustable higher ratio rockers, better properly sized/length/style push-rods, better valve springs to match what ever camshaft you end up with, lighter & stronger valve spring retainers & locks, much better induction, intake, carburetor, maybe 2x4bbl, maybe FI or maybe even an EFI & seriously updated "custom" fuel system, much better free flowing exhaust & properly sized headers, a K&N X-treem Air filter/cleaner, a much hotter ignition system to help fire all the extra fuel with the new set-up/combo, a better cooling system to handle the added heat of a hi-perf engine, will all help allot but a 318 poly is kind of a boat anchor & very little real performance upgrades are even available, I would highly suggest either, probably you best chances to make 600HP at the crankshaft is, either N20 a Roots or Screw type Blower or Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo's to boost the power, they would have to be a "custom" application also... that wouldn't be for the novas builder either, but maybe the only way to get enough real HP out of a Poly engine, the Poly engine block may not be the best for boost either, it may not live very long in any 600HP configuration... Hell ! The car/chassis is the easy part... Then the suspension maybe S/S springs would be the least expensive & easiest to improve, quality sub-frame connectors, move the battery to the trunk for weight transfer, a good "quality rebuilt 727 with quality parts & valve-body", a much better & much higher stall speed torque converter, to help the car move initially, rear gears 3.73:1 @ a minimum, to get the heavy car moving early 4.10:1- 4.30:1 would be even better, with a much taller, wider & stickier tire, it will have a much better foot print & will help to get power down to the ground, quality shocks & adjustable preferably, your car/chassis will need to make up for a lack of HP/TQ with the sub-par 318 Poly engine, it all can be done, with the Polysphere engines, but there are far easier & far cheaper alternatives thou, if you dead set on that 318ci Poly, it's going to be a challenge if your not an experienced performance builder... What is your experience ??, is this your 1st venture into making serious power ??, do you have any fab &/or engine tuning skills ??, do you know the basics at least, to be able to know what to purchase ??, if not get a reputable quality machinist, not just some local yokel, unless they are familiar with the Polysphere Mopar engines... That will make the expenses raise considerably also... You may want to find a good knowledgeable automotive machinist, make friends with the guy, you will be spending allot of time & money with HIM/HER & or some S.E.M.A. companies to produce a custom ground stroker crankshaft & custom ground camshaft, to be able to to produce 550-600 crank HP to get an honest 400 RWHP {I'm afraid the block & heads will still be a weak link, may not handle 550-600HP} & getting it all to the ground, that's a very tall task for a 318 poly, even for a seasoned pro, you will loose 15%-25% in parasitic drag/loss thru the drive-train to the ground... Good Luck you will need it... Buy some books 1st, educate yourself 1st & foremost, so you don't waste a **** load of money, because of doing stuff a 2nd time, knowledge is the best thing, do your due diligence & research.... I would also suggest contacting Mancini Racing, talk to some Mopar experts... keep us all posted.. sorry to be a buzz kill, it can be done, with a big enough budget & allot of knowledge plus some serious automotive machine work...
 
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