1968 Dodge Charger Torsion Bars Removal

[68 Sport Satellite]

There is a snapping in back that must be removed before they will come out.
My local advance had a suspension kit that had that remover in it for rent

oh yeah! Forgot about that one. That would be frustrating if this were forgotten. It's a C-snap ring if I recall.

 

[Don Frelier]

You could make a remover pretty easily with 3/4" plywood and some carriage bolts.
Just cut a couple of pieces and use about 6 bolts, you should be able to get it tight enough to hit with a deadblow or a mash hammer.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Where did you purchase it from?

My buddy jeff sells them.. and I was wrong.. $47, not $30.00
T bar removal tool

 

[Dutchrebuild]

Bought this one off of Egay awhile back...works great

 

[Charger Too]

If I missed it, I'm sorry but did you remove the wire keeper from the rear anchor?

Yes, the wire keepers have been removed.

 

[Vinny]

The suspension has been unloaded all the way. I have completely removed the adjusters in order to clean the fine threads. I need to install new bushings in the lower control arm. The front nuts need to be removed to remove the lower control arms in order to install the bushings. I was using the vise grips to drive the bars back. No luck. I have not damaged the bars yet.

Pry back on the control arms and that will push the torsion bars out, providing the strut rods nut is removed. The vise grips on the torsion bars have ruined them.

 

[Don Frelier]

Pry back on the control arms and that will push the torsion bars out, providing the strut rods nut is removed. The vise grips on the torsion bars have ruined them.

If they are ruined then why not just cut them?

 

[Triplegreen500]

I did this job on my 70 last winter when I rebuilt my front end. Naturally, since I was replacing the bars with thicker ones, mine practically fell out.

As noted above, these bars are loaded in a twisting motion (hence, "torsion"). If you've ever twisted a tree branch to remove it, you know how they splinter. These bars will do the same thing if damaged. A smooth surface has no catch points " for cracking or splintering to start, but as soon as there is a mar on the surface...it can (and will) start the splintering.

Undo every fastener on your LCAs except the pivot bolts. Make them finger tight. Disconnect the knuckle/hub from the LCA and let it droop fully. Push it if needed. That should take any further tension off the bars.

Might as well upgrade to thicker ones while you're at it. I took out the stock (0.88"? Just a 318 car...) bars and installed PST 1.03”. Rides great, no bounce or "wallowing", ride height set with no problems.