1968 Dodge Charger Torsion Bars Removal

[Charger Too]

I have the rear spring clips out and front nuts off, but having difficulty removing the torsion bars. Driver's side has moved a 1/4 of an inch, but the passenger side has not moved at all. The tools I am using are vise grips and a pipe wrench. I have sprayed penetrating oil in the back. No vendor rents the proper removal tool. Should I purchase one at a cost of about $50.00? Thanks!

 

[WileERobby]

Front nuts ? What front nuts ? Have you unloaded the suspension ? Vise grips ? You don't use vise grips if you're re-using the bars !!

 

[radical rob]

Cannot use anything that marks up the bars. They are scrap if you mark them for instance with a vice grip. Make sure adjusters are fully backed off.
Some parts stores may rent removal tool

 

[Charger Too]

Front nuts ? What front nuts ? Have you unloaded the suspension ? Vise grips ? You don't use vise grips if you're re-using the bars !!

The suspension has been unloaded all the way. I have completely removed the adjusters in order to clean the fine threads. I need to install new bushings in the lower control arm. The front nuts need to be removed to remove the lower control arms in order to install the bushings. I was using the vise grips to drive the bars back. No luck. I have not damaged the bars yet.

 

[Charger Too]

Cannot use anything that marks up the bars. They are scrap if you mark them for instance with a vice grip. Make sure adjusters are fully backed off.
Some parts stores may rent removal tool

None of the stores I checked with have the tool to rent or purchase. How does a scratch on the outside of the bar negatively effect the bar?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

None of the stores I checked with have the tool to rent or purchase. How does a scratch on the outside of the bar negatively effect the bar?

the bar is under torsion with the car on the ground and any damage to the bar outer surface acts as a stress riser and can lead to eventual bar failure. Not sure how long it would take, but it's a well-known concern. Please note that the majority of load is carried by the outer surface of the bar and the closer you get to the inner center of the bar, the load drops off to zero.

I seem to recall when my bars were removed that the mechanic used a mini-sledge hammer to drive a metal cylindrical rod against the end of the torsion bar to remove it with the car in the air. Others please chime in here..,.

 

[eldubb440]

if you are replacing the bars, just cut them (unloaded of course)......they will fall out

 

[Bighouse]

Marks/gouges on the bars create a “stress riser” and the mark is where it’ll crack.

 

[jimbosride]

If I remember you also must remove the rubber bumper to get the arm to hang all the way down.

 

[WileERobby]

Read all these comments ^^^ . Every one spot on. If you're doing LCA bushings, unbolt the arm to let it drop will ease the torsion bar removal. If you've gouged the bar with vise grips, trash it.

 

[terrywalker]

Here's the torsion bar removal tool I made for a few dollars to remove them from my Challenger. A few hits with a hammer on the red angle bar towards the rear and they came right out. I shot some penetrating oil on the front hex socket to aid in removal. Note the tool I made can be rotated around to hit from underneath the car and I hand ground the insides of the U-bolts smooth. I left the LCA pivot shaft bolted into the k-frame so the front hex of the torsion bar came out of the LCA hex socket.
Terry W.

 

[eldubb440]

damn spiffy ^^^^^^^^^

 

[hunt2elk]

Here's the torsion bar removal tool I made for a few dollars to remove them from my Challenger. A few hits with a hammer on the red angle bar towards the rear and they came right out. I shot some penetrating oil on the front hex socket to aid in removal. Note the tool I made can be rotated around to hit from underneath the car and I hand ground the insides of the U-bolts smooth. I left the LCA pivot shaft bolted into the k-frame so the front hex of the torsion bar came out of the LCA hex socket.
Terry W.

View attachment 1604549

View attachment 1604550

Good thinking. That will work just as good as the actual tool that is sold for the job.

 

[larris]

7/8" wire rope clamp works great.

 

[Runcharger]

Undo your lower control arm pivot nuts. Use a prybar and pry the lower control arm forward off the end of the T-bar. Then drive the T'bars back using a sledge hammer and a drift.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Undo your lower control arm pivot nuts. Use a prybar and pry the lower control arm forward off the end of the T-bar. Then drive the T'bars back using a sledge hammer and a drift.

I recall having to do this last time I removed T bars... 20+ years ago lol. about to do it again. bought a fancy $30.00 tool this time!

 

[Charger Too]

I recall having to do this last time I removed T bars... 20+ years ago lol. about to do it again. bought a fancy $30.00 tool this time!

Where did you purchase it from?

 

[Sixpactogo]

If I missed it, I'm sorry but did you remove the wire keeper from the rear anchor?

 

[radical rob]

There is a snapping in back that must be removed before they will come out.
My local advance had a suspension kit that had that remover in it for rent

 

[Don Frelier]

This is probably a unique case but when I took mine out last summer the passenger side did not move even with the removal tool and a sledge.
I don't think it was ever removed and being an Upstate NY car driven in winter for several years I would guess.
The problem was that the lower arm was seized up and wouldn't rotate up and down.
The bar was still loaded when the adjuster was backed off.
I cut the bar and it did a big POP!
After that it came right out.

The larger PST bars were a nice upgrade by the way.