1969 Coronet side scoops??
- Thread starter misty2144
- Start date
Aussie Coronet
Well-Known Member
Are they original scoops or the common after market repro's? I just fitted some repro's to my 69. I screwed in the threaded screws first, then made a template by laying the scoop onto cardboard and punching holes where the screw threads left marks in the cardboard. With the scoop hard against the cardboard, draw around the scoop and cut it to shape.
Important: Make sure all the threaded screws are mounted into the scoop at the same angle otherwise you will be re-shaping the holes in the car once you've drilled the hole as the pins will be at different angles and be a nightmare to fit. They will crack and parts of the fibreglass will break off, don't panic too much unless the pieces are large. I reinforced the area around the screws with a two part epoxy once the screws were in, just in case.
Use the template to mark your holes on the car but they are a guide only. Drill one hole at a time, test fit the scoop and then move onto the next hole, don't just drill the 5 holes and expect them to just line up!!!
A good way to determine where they go is to get a small spirit level and hold it vertically against the front edge (nearest the door opening) while it is against the car. The spirit level will tell you when it's square straight up and down. If you have the scoops that have the chrome inlet at the front do your measurements before fitting them, I can double check mine but I'm fairly certain that the leading edge of the scoop, before the fancy chrome inlet bits go on, is 145mm from the door pillar.
This will put your scoops in the correct place to hide the factory impressions in the 1/4 panels.
Doing up the nuts inside can be a pain in the bum. You will need to have triple jointed elbows and arms like an octopus. The front pins are the hardest. I used an open ended spanner mainly, tightening a small fraction at a time. Getting the nuts onto the thread is really hard so practice on the scoop before you put it on the car and get the nuts used to going on the thread.
Be careful about losing nuts and cup washers inside the quarters as it is deep and there is no getting them back if you drop them.
One of the front nuts, I think it's the top one, is the hardest of the 5 and If you can get a long extension rod onto a socket with a flexible joint, you can tighten it up from outside the inner skin via a small oval shaped hole, otherwise it's a long and painful process from inside the skin, a fraction of an inch at a time. It will do your head in!
The 3 nuts at the back are relatively easy.
In a nutshell, it's a painful job and will frustrate you, you'll never want to do it again.
If you have any problems, drop me a line here or PM me and I will get back to you, I literally did this just a few days ago so it's fresh in my mind....and nightmares, at the moment and I'm only too happy to help.
Important: Make sure all the threaded screws are mounted into the scoop at the same angle otherwise you will be re-shaping the holes in the car once you've drilled the hole as the pins will be at different angles and be a nightmare to fit. They will crack and parts of the fibreglass will break off, don't panic too much unless the pieces are large. I reinforced the area around the screws with a two part epoxy once the screws were in, just in case.
Use the template to mark your holes on the car but they are a guide only. Drill one hole at a time, test fit the scoop and then move onto the next hole, don't just drill the 5 holes and expect them to just line up!!!
A good way to determine where they go is to get a small spirit level and hold it vertically against the front edge (nearest the door opening) while it is against the car. The spirit level will tell you when it's square straight up and down. If you have the scoops that have the chrome inlet at the front do your measurements before fitting them, I can double check mine but I'm fairly certain that the leading edge of the scoop, before the fancy chrome inlet bits go on, is 145mm from the door pillar.
This will put your scoops in the correct place to hide the factory impressions in the 1/4 panels.
Doing up the nuts inside can be a pain in the bum. You will need to have triple jointed elbows and arms like an octopus. The front pins are the hardest. I used an open ended spanner mainly, tightening a small fraction at a time. Getting the nuts onto the thread is really hard so practice on the scoop before you put it on the car and get the nuts used to going on the thread.
Be careful about losing nuts and cup washers inside the quarters as it is deep and there is no getting them back if you drop them.
One of the front nuts, I think it's the top one, is the hardest of the 5 and If you can get a long extension rod onto a socket with a flexible joint, you can tighten it up from outside the inner skin via a small oval shaped hole, otherwise it's a long and painful process from inside the skin, a fraction of an inch at a time. It will do your head in!
The 3 nuts at the back are relatively easy.
In a nutshell, it's a painful job and will frustrate you, you'll never want to do it again.
If you have any problems, drop me a line here or PM me and I will get back to you, I literally did this just a few days ago so it's fresh in my mind....and nightmares, at the moment and I'm only too happy to help.
Propwash
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Great info Aussie! Would work well for the guys doing the dual scoop hoods as well.
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