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1969 dodge coronet

gilberttitan08

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Hey guys, I just picked up a 69 dodge coronet. A got a 340 sitting in my garage, I'm planning on dropping it in my coronet. Anyways, I wanna do a 4 spd. What would I need for a 340 4spd set up for my 69 Corona?
 
Is it a 4 speed car? If not you will need a lot. What do you have?
Transmission for starters. Bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, throw out bearing. Z bar and all pedal linkage. Clutch pedal. Floor hump installed. Just off the top of my head.
 
It's an automatic car. All I have is a freshly rebuilt 340. I thought about big block. But I am tempted to put in this 340 that's sitting in my garage. Is this small block 4 spd conversion the same as big block/4? (As in will it affect shifter location)
 
I have a four speed Coronet Super Bee and an automatic Coronet R/T and I drive the R/T 10:1 over the Bee. It is your car, but why do you want to change it to a four speed? I would look into a big block as the Coronet is a large vehicle. A 340 small block in a compact Dart or 'Cuda is fine, but I would imagine a 340 in a intermediate Coronet will be a slouch.
 
I have a four speed Coronet Super Bee and an automatic Coronet R/T and I drive the R/T 10:1 over the Bee. It is your car, but why do you want to change it to a four speed? I would look into a big block as the Coronet is a large vehicle. A 340 small block in a compact Dart or 'Cuda is fine, but I would imagine a 340 in a intermediate Coronet will be a slouch.

I thought about the engine space of the coronet. I had a 68 barracuda that I was going to throw the 340 into, but ended up selling the barracuda. Been wanting a coronet for the longest time. I can always sell the 340 for a big block. But I'm like a little boy, Want it on the road asap.
 
340 in a cuda works, so a 340 in a coronet will too. It would be a fun screamer. It would be a lot of work to make it a 4 speed. You want on the road asap, keep it an auto.
 
To make a four speed work (since I have my heart set on that) will a four speed slap in without any sheet metal modifications besides a floor hump? I don't want the shifter location to be off center.
 
Don't forget you have to weld a Z bar mounting ball on the frame rail.
 
$4,500
complete set-up
Brewers, the Best in the business.....


store_4speed.jpg
 
Check the crank hole where the trans shaft fits in. Not all 340 crankshafts were drilled for a stick. And getting that done is a real hassle. Auto's are shallow, sticks are drilled much deeper.
 
I've got a floor hump and the bracket that gets welded to the frame. $100 + shipping. Its a start. Gathering up all the parts one by one may take some time, buying them all at once is much easier but costly. But like Monaco said check the crank, you don't want to get ready to put it together and find out the crank wont work.
 
Check the crank hole where the trans shaft fits in. Not all 340 crankshafts were drilled for a stick. And getting that done is a real hassle. Auto's are shallow, sticks are drilled much deeper.

been awhile but seems like we used a conversion bearing that fits in the crank and supports the input shaft.
cant recall the name or number but we used them in a lot of motors because of the crank issue.
on the z bar,he might could use the hydro setup from the dakotas for his clutchwork instead of going mechanical??
has anyone tried?
 
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