1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

[Donny]

I've media blasted about 200 cars so far. You're chasing your tail on this my friend. There is no saving much metal on these cars, you need new full qtrs, Trunk, wheelhouses, heck everything basically. Package Trays also are repopped, get a new one, get all the old metal off, send it to your media blaster and what comes back will be where you need to start. I've chased my own tail too often many years ago myself, and hate to see others do it.

 

[threewood]

I don't see the need on replacing good oem metal just because. What I have left is solid and very usable and the repop stuff is just not as crisp. This is a driver, so everything is not going to be perfect. Full quarters would have been nice but the $1300 I saved will go into the motor. Quarter skins, while not perfect, were no charge to me and fit fine.

I wish you were closer so I could send the car down and have you blast it. I am 3 hours away from any media blaster so it is going to be an adventure.

 

[Donny]

The real issue is we can't determing if a panel is really good before being blasted. I see way too many panels that guys say are good, I blast and they turn to swiss cheese.

 

[threewood]

Got the top cleaned up and coated with Rust Bullet. Going to tackle the pass side drip rail this weekend and hopefully get the top fit. It is miserably hot out.

 

[70roadrunner440]

Got the top cleaned up and coated with Rust Bullet. Going to tackle the pass side drip rail this weekend and hopefully get the top fit. It is miserably hot out.
View attachment 351797

Is rust bullet good?

 

[threewood]

There are quite a few people who like it. It sticks very good so far and coats very nice, but I don't have any long term use with it. On areas that will be unaccessible it makes sense to use it. I have nothing negative to say about it.

 

[Donny]

I've used Rust Bullet for many uses, and found it to be a solid alternative where blasting an object wasn't a viable option. Just remember those products were developed for ships at sea that had to keep and stay operational and keep rust from taking over. Just look at any retired ship on display someplace, tons of 'paint' is built up everywhere.

 

[threewood]

Getting some work done. Got the pass side drip rail scabbed in, not too much trouble. I went back and looked at the sail panels (upper quarters) and decided to scab in the ones from the donor top. As Donny said, rust can hide and there were too many thin spots for me to patch. New complete quarters would have been nice, but I am having fun patching what I can and saving some money too. So out with my patch and in with the replacement...

 

[Mike67]

Man you have your hands full! Very impressive!!!

 

[Donny]

I understand your position, but, after seeing how metal rots over the years from my unique perspective -- seeing the metal disfigure and turn into piles of junk whereas it all looked 'good' before while media blasting, well, I'm now replacing items that could be fixed, but, don't as 'fixing' takes much more time, and you'll still have the 'old' piece in place. Like on my Satellite the Package tray could be repaired with a few patches here and there, but, I'm not, the entire thing is coming out and going into the scrap heap. But, as I said, I understand your position as it's rewarding to do the work yourself.

 

[threewood]

Believe me, I have drooled over AMDs selection of new panels. You could just about build an entire car from their selection. As this is my first complete rebuild, I am exploring panel fixes and replacements which would probably make purists scoff. The only blaster in town does straight sand and I don't trust him to not warp panels. When I have the bulk of my repairs done I will look into renting a hauler and truck to get my car to Phoenix where there is a plastic media blaster to go over the entire car just so I have a fresh base for SPI epoxy primer. Cart before the horse I know but that is where I am.

Today more rust removal and this should be the last of it before I fill holes and coat the roof structure prior to installation. Other side was the same, rust along the seam and rear edge. Donor panel is in excellent shape. I need to remove some hard to reach spot welds under the drip rail, no drill access. Best method I found is to use a dremel with ball mill to grind the spots out. Once those are out old section gets cut out and new one fit. I'm taking a break now, so hot.

 

[threewood]

Getting closer. Still need to patch some drill holes in the rear window flange and coat the frame before I can get the roof on.

 

[Habib]

You do some great work. Subscribed.

 

[Donny]

Here's my Satellite, all inner areas and such blasted and in epoxy.

 

[Donny]

Here's my Satellite, all inner areas and such blasted and in epoxy.

 

[threewood]

Here's my Satellite, all inner areas and such blasted and in epoxy.

View attachment 352592

Show off! LOL

What is it doing outside again? That is the second time it was epoxied correct?

Looks great. What epoxy do you normally use? I used SPI on my 62 and it was a pleasure to work with.

 

[threewood]

Got my roof support holes welded, ground down and main structure in Rust Bullet. When it dries, weld through on the entire flange and test fit roof!!

QUESTION?? Does anyone know if the GTX w/o A/C came with a 22" radiator? I ordered a 26" aluminum radiator and didn't think too much about it. Measured the new dog house (from donor car) and it is for a 22". So, I figured I could switch it over with my old passenger side yoke. Went out back, found the yoke and it is the same size!? It is original as the spot welds were very much intact.

Old yoke...

New yoke...

 

[Donny]

Outside from one bay to the next! LOL!

 

[threewood]

Waiting on my friend to come by and help me lift the roof in place, took a pic of my scrap pile. I remember when I had no scrap pile

Old roof...

 

[threewood]

Roof is on the car!!!!! I am very happy with the fit but I would like to set the rear glass in place to double check. I don't have my rear trim clips yet but I would like to check the fit on that as well. Super stoked, bad metal is 95% gone. Once the roof is glued down to the supports and spot welded it is all down hill I need to get a few more of the two fingered clamps for the roof rail sides.