1970 383 A31 4spd fan-clutch fan pulley question?

[SuperBeeFan]

Hello all!

Looking for all to reply with your experience and knowledge please.

I have a 70 Bee factory 4spd A31 option car.
When I purchased it, came with an already installed aftermarket aluminum radiator that had seen better days. Also, installed was an older flex fan, no, fan shroud and there’s a large spacer between the fan and the pulley.
I didn’t include a picture of the fan clutch or fan shroud.

I purchased a Glen-Ray factory radiator that Bob provided me the correct radiator information (have) and correct fan shroud information (have), correct factory type Fan from Mancini Racing (have) and correct fan clutch type (have) to replace the old stuff.

I removed the old radiator and test dry fitting new stuff above when I realized that I missed a couple of questions I need help with? Please see pictures below? 1st pic is old radiator before removing it.

1) Do I use the large spacer that’s currently between the fan pulley and the old flex fan, with the new Mancini fan and clutch? Or No spacer? If a spacer is supposed to be between the fan-pulley, how wide?

2) I’ve seen mounting bolts and also mounting studs with nuts and lock washers, when installing the Mancini fan to the clutch fan? Which is correct the studs? Or bolts?

3) How much space should be between the clutch fan front and the radiator cooling fins when mounted to the engine pulley and torque specs?

Thank you,
Ken

Please see the pictures below

 

[pnora]

Hello all!

Looking for all to reply with your experience and knowledge please.

I have a 70 Bee factory 4spd A31 option car.
When I purchased it, came with an already installed aftermarket aluminum radiator that had seen better days. Also, installed was an older flex fan, no, fan shroud and there’s a large spacer between the fan and the pulley.
I didn’t include a picture of the fan clutch or fan shroud.

I purchased a Glen-Ray factory radiator that Bob provided me the correct radiator information (have) and correct fan shroud information (have), correct factory type Fan from Mancini Racing (have) and correct fan clutch type (have) to replace the old stuff.

I removed the old radiator and test dry fitting new stuff above when I realized that I missed a couple of questions I need help with? Please see pictures below? 1st pic is old radiator before removing it.

1) Do I use the large spacer that’s currently between the fan pulley and the old flex fan, with the new Mancini fan and clutch? Or No spacer? If a spacer is supposed to be between the fan-pulley, how wide?

2) I’ve seen mounting bolts and also mounting studs with nuts and lock washers, when installing the Mancini fan to the clutch fan? Which is correct the studs? Or bolts?

3) How much space should be between the clutch fan front and the radiator cooling fins when mounted to the engine pulley and torque specs?

Thank you,
Ken

Please see the pictures below

View attachment 1982153

View attachment 1982154

View attachment 1982155

View attachment 1982156

View attachment 1982159

View attachment 1982160

No spacer. You can use studs or bolts. Not sure on how close but it is close to the radiator. Torque spec is in the FSM but I never used it.

 

[Bird 426]

Is the Mancini clutch drive like the Hayden #2947? They can be a bugger to install. Some like the studs, some like bolts. When you get one started, move on to 2-3-4, you have to work them all on a little at a time, until they are all seated, then final tightening. Best to do this before you install the radiator so that you don't mess up your $1,400. radiator! Check your space so that you know that everything fits!
You'll get it, good luck and patience!

 

[R413]

The factory did the studs go into the clutch and they hold the fan to the clutch. The bolts mount the clutch and pulley to the water pump.

 

[devinism]

And you might think about doing something with the driver's side motor mount insulator. I've seen MANY fans chew up nice radiators.

 

[Geoff 2]

If you are having overheating problems, you should instal a shroud. Use a fan spacer that places the fan blades half in/half out of the shroud. Shroud should be sized to work with the fan diameter, otherwise the fan/shroud deal is useless.

 

[SuperBeeFan]

No spacer. You can use studs or bolts. Not sure on how close but it is close to the radiator. Torque spec is in the FSM but I never used it.

View attachment 1982170

Thank you pnora!
My apologies for the delayed reply back as I’ve been helping a friend that needed my help to move on short notice and I haven’t been available.
This really helps tremendously

 

[SuperBeeFan]

Is the Mancini clutch drive like the Hayden #2947? They can be a bugger to install. Some like the studs, some like bolts. When you get one started, move on to 2-3-4, you have to work them all on a little at a time, until they are all seated, then final tightening. Best to do this before you install the radiator so that you don't mess up your $1,400. radiator! Check your space so that you know that everything fits!
You'll get it, good luck and patience!

Hello Bird 426!
Appreciate your insight and feedback, as I’ve seen different measurements and clutches with different types of radiators. Since I was having Over heating issues and knew it wasn’t the thermostat and the aluminum old radiator had many bend fins and flex fan, I stepped up to get the Glen-Ray unit and upgraded factory type fan and clutch after talking with Bob and the problem I was having, so started with the main cooling source and worked in reverse.

 

[SuperBeeFan]

The factory did the studs go into the clutch and they hold the fan to the clutch. The bolts mount the clutch and pulley to the water pump.

Thank you R413, as I knew in my gut, thought that’s how it was from the factory, also seeing all the different after market day 2-3 changes after being moved off the lots.

But I’m 58 years old and been through this before when I was redoing my 69 Charger SE back in 1985. Unfortunately if I had completely followed the fad, The Charger would have been Pro Streeted with full front fiberglass tilt clip and fiberglass rear bumper and deck lid, with tunnel ram and Super Trick rims, with a narrowed Dana 60 with 4:56 gears!

Anyway, just looking to have nice quality driver that’s not going to be to bad with the 3:91 gears and 4spd!

 

[SuperBeeFan]

And you might think about doing something with the driver's side motor mount insulator. I've seen MANY fans chew up nice radiators.

Devonian,
Thank you for reminding me about the drivers side motor mount insulator. With the new rebuilt long block installed I replaced the engine mounts, insulators too. But thinking getting the Mancini racing performance mounts or polyurethane mounts? What do you think?

 

[SuperBeeFan]

If you are having overheating problems, you should instal a shroud. Use a fan spacer that places the fan blades half in/half out of the shroud. Shroud should be sized to work with the fan diameter, otherwise the fan/shroud deal is useless.

Geoff 2,
You make a great observation. Not all fan shrouds are the same and equally the fans diameter can interfere with the shroud, and placing the fan inside or outside the fan shroud to help move more air.

Devonian,
Thank you for reminding me about the drivers side motor mount insulator. With the new rebuilt long block installed I replaced the engine mounts, insulators too. But thinking getting the Mancini racing performance mounts or polyurethane mounts? What do you think?

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Devonian,
Thank you for reminding me about the drivers side motor mount insulator. With the new rebuilt long block installed I replaced the engine mounts, insulators too. But thinking getting the Mancini racing performance mounts or polyurethane mounts? What do you think?

Could always stick with the old fashioned rubber mounts for vibration control and install one of these?

MRE - Bolt In Torque Strap Kit - A, B&E Body

You can also drill holes and do the old bolt method on your originals. Only cost a few dollars and makes them so they can’t come apart.

 

[SuperBeeFan]

Good Morning BLK 68 R/T,
Thank you for the support, literally!

I’ve been to the Mancini site several times and purchased stuff but didn’t see this. Appreciate the link. The newer rebuilt engine has an increased HP over the stock specs and torque. Not sure exactly how much but didn’t get the engine on a dyn o. This should definitely help!

Here’s a picture of our Bee!
I have to update my progress in the members restoration threads.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Good Morning BLK 68 R/T,
Thank you for the support, literally!

I’ve been to the Mancini site several times and purchased stuff but didn’t see this. Appreciate the link. The newer rebuilt engine has an increased HP over the stock specs and torque. Not sure exactly how much but didn’t get the engine on a dyn o. This should definitely help!

Here’s a picture of our Bee!
I have to update my progress in the members restoration threads.

View attachment 1983189

Sweet ride! I love the 70 bees. I used to have a B5 blue 383 4 speed one about 25 years ago.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

There is a link over on dodgecharger.com that details out the motor mount bolt method I was referring to, but the pictures don’t seem to work on my phone. Maybe on a laptop they would open?
It’s in the engine section and is a sticky in there.

 

[SuperBeeFan]

Thank you for the additional information that might help with this!