1970 b body water control valve wire

[Sonny]

Someone cut the copper wire on my water control valve (Belvedere) that goes on the sender inside the heater box. Can you just solder a new copper wire in its place? What gauge is that wire? The sender is still in tact.

 

[moparlore]

http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/

I have not personally used this guy, but I have read good things. Search the threads, several threads have been posted on the subject.

Happy hunting!

 

[snakeoil24]

the copper is actually a tube similar to pilot light copper tubing. Heats up and expands the air in tube.. Or you may have an earlier unit which is oil filled.

 

[JimKueneman]

I had mine done by Jim in the above link. No one that I know of will restore the expansing tube. It actually was a bit of a marketing gimmick and something to put in the brochure but of little use. What it did was if the interior was cold (measured by the tube) it would drive the valve to the "more heat (more coolant flow)" than the dash control is set to. It was a "get heat faster" trick as far as I can tell. Once the tube warmed it the valve would go back to the position the dash lever was at. The only way to get it to work is buy a NOS valve. The last one I found was $500..... For a Concours restoration ok but for anything else it will not make any noticeable difference.

More important is the 'h' valve in the box. It shuts off 1/2 the flow to the core when the AC is on. The reason is the heater can overpower the AC evaporator and you can't blend the AC with the heat. Just a slight movement of the temperature lever off cold and the air turns hot. I had my core recored by GlenRay. Bob can not get the narrow core anymore so it is actually wider and higher capacity. This makes blending almost not possible as well. It tends to overpower the evaporator with just a bit of fluid flowing through it when the level is pull off full cold (heater core water shut completely off).

 

[Sonny]

I had mine done by Jim in the above link. No one that I know of will restore the expansing tube. It actually was a bit of a marketing gimmick and something to put in the brochure but of little use. What it did was if the interior was cold (measured by the tube) it would drive the valve to the "more heat (more coolant flow)" than the dash control is set to. It was a "get heat faster" trick as far as I can tell. Once the tube warmed it the valve would go back to the position the dash lever was at. The only way to get it to work is by a NOS valve. The last one I found was $500..... For a Concours restoration ok but for anything else it will not make any noticeable difference.

More important is the 'h' valve in the box. It shuts off 1/2 the flow to the core when the AC is on. The reason is the heater can overpower the AC evaporator and you can't blend the AC with the heat. Just a slight movement of the temperature lever off cold and the air turns hot. I had my core recored by GlenRay. Bob can get the narrow core anymore so it is actually wider and higher capacity. This makes blending almost not possible as well. It tends to overpower the evaporator with just a bit of fluid flowing through it when the level is pull off full cold (heater core water shut completely off).

Thanks Jim. I think I will just leave it disconnected and see if I even need it.

 

[JimKueneman]

Thanks Jim. I think I will just leave it disconnected and see if I even need it.

You won't know it is not there.

 

[Sonny]

You won't know it is not there.

Should I hook up the vacuum actuator too or not? I’m guessing “no”.

 

[JimKueneman]

View attachment 556205
Should I hook up the vacuum actuator too or not? I’m guessing “no”.

That is something new from my 68. I don’t know what that is for.