1970 rebuilt 70 383 Mechanical or electric fuel pump feedback help.

[SuperBeeFan]

Hello everyone!
It’s been about 4 years getting back into a Mopar muscle car. I went through a loss of my father estate and had to liquidate my 71 71 super bee V code 4 speed factory project car to get family things taken care of.


In need of some tech help feedback.
Recently picked up a 70 Bee factory 383 4 spd car, N96 fresh air , factory H.P. Manifolds with 391 gears. Just plan on periodically shows, events an driving, not much racing ‍ sorry I’m advance for longer post and appreciate everyone help here!

The car ran but had a tired (Not numbers matching) engine and was going to rebuild just some over modified stock specs. I found a local already rebuilt long block 383 casting date correct and upgraded with some good goodie’s.
It has double timing chain 440 source brass distbutor gear and roller cam mutha thumper and Morrell Roller lifters, Torker manifold —I’ll include pictures. Anyway, I need to know if I can use the mechanical fuel pump, as there’s a note to use electric fuel pump only from machine shop.

I’m planning on single carb around 750 Holley, as I currently have a Edelbrock AVS 2 electric choke and possibly upgrading current distributor. Also appears I have manual disc brakes, so cam I don’t have to worry about vacuum. 1st picture is existing setup. Other pictures of rebuilt purchased engine and information.

So, looking a swapping sometime next 2 weeks, I read the billet cams need a composite fuel pump rod for mechanical pump and not to use the existing factory one, hence maybe the machine shop recommendation of using electric. I read that there were some after market composite rods failing or having problems. I’m thinking mechanical vs electric but need everyone’s experiences and feedback or recommendations. Thanks.

 

[davek]

Im confused why you couldnt use a mechanical fuel pump. I would call and asked the builder.

 

[wagonman]

Most roller cams don't have the FP eccentric. See if it has the FP push rod If not put one in and see if it moves when cranking. My$$ is no it doesn't. Maybe you could see down there with the Intake off?

 

[R413]

The note says it all.

How about look into the intake valley and see if the cam has an eccentric built into it.

don’t just put a rod in there and roll it over.

 

[SuperBeeFan]

Hello All, so first, I should have added that after All these years of muscle cars, I have LIMITED actual internal mechanical engine hands on knowledge.

Most all of my hands on engine experience was limited to swapping carbs, intakes and miscellaneous headers. I’m used old school, I owned a 69 charger SE 383 car for 26 years I paid $600 for in 1981 and the engine had been rebuilt. I didn’t have any problems with it. Fast forward to now and my 1970 Bee 383 rebuild swap, now, understanding is the machine shop builder of this 383 long block had built the engine and then was a product of COvID closure and not available to ask questions. I just have the build spec. Sheets. I’ll check on what wagonmans and R413 saying.

There was a 6-month wait for rebuilding an engine locally and about same time from several eBay Mopar engine builders. Had an opportunity to get this rebuilt long block locally.

I’ve read several posts about different problems with the mechanical fuel pump rods, and bronze tip and various correct applications between billet and cast cams.
and wanted to be prepared as much as possible for any problems. Thanks for everyone’s input.

 

[Geoff 2]

Carter #4594, the BEST stand alone elec fuel pump in this category.
Instant start, even after sitting for 3 mths.

 

[1STMP]

Just some added advice. Run an
electric fuel pump safety shut off
switch should your engine oil
pressure drop below 5 psi.