1971 Charger Restoration Parts List

[RockyPat]

Hello all,

I have a 1971 Charger 318 bench car that is not running and needs a significant restoration to make it a driver.

I know it needs an engine and transmission rebuild(I have 440/727 cores), suspension rebuild, steering rebuild, 8 3/4 rear end swap, interior redone, rally cluster swap, bucket seat and console swap, front disc brakes conversion, radiator, wiring, etc.

Does anyone have a parts list that they created when doing a restoration? Parts used would be awesome.

It is hard to find certain parts for these cars, and a list would be a great reference.

I am trying to build a budget minded driver. Nothing flashy.

Thank you.

 

[RockyPat]

For example, I do not know what to do when rebuilding the suspension. Do I look for a kit? Do I buy individual parts? Stuff like this is difficult when I lack experience.

Thanks a lot.

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Your build ideas sound very similar to what I did with my Satellite. It started out as a 318/904 with a smaller rear axle. Bench seat, column shift, standard instrument cluster, etc. One of the few options was A/C. I ended up getting a GTX that had severe rust issues as a parts donor for much of the changes I made.
I don't have a parts list to help but I would suggest getting a service manual and using the sub sections to organize your thoughts. As you make your decisions such as factory front discs vs. aftermarket you can figure out the parts you need, or ask for advice and parts suggestions.
Some systems like front suspension are best to get a kit so you do everything at once instead of piecemeal.

 

[drhill]

I have basically the same car. I don't have a part's list but I have found different things from different places to put mine together. It is not all mopar part's but what I put together works well. If you don't have ac and you want it, that was one of my biggest headaches. PM me on what I've done if you want to know.

 

[Studio70]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showcase/la-to-b.5531/

 

[Paul_G]

I do not think anyone can give you a specific parts list to restore your car. Some things may be reusable, some not. When doing a drive train swap some things are available aftermarket, some not and must be sourced used. Depending on what small parts are still with the used parts you buy like shift levers and rods, braking component's on the spindles and/or axles, etc. will determine what you still need to buy.

Do you want a more sporty feel to the car, or soft stock ride? Poly bushings firm up the suspension and give the car a sports car feel. Stock rubber bushings will provide a factory like softer ride. Up to you want you want, or a mix and match of the two bushing types.

PST, Firm Feel, and others will have suspension kits, but they cost more than sourcing separately from Rock Auto or Ebay sellers. Up to you.

Switching to a center console requires all the shift linkage, lever arms, and bell crank to fit the trans you will be using. Some is available new, but very pricey. Finding used is much cheaper, but you have to piece it all together. That is where the factory service manual is a must have.

It will be a fun project for you if you like puzzles. My suggestion is to do it one system at a time. Say front end suspension and brakes. Dissasemble, reconditon the parts you will be reusing. Rebuild each piece and re assemble.

 

[451Mopar]

If you have the right tools, rebuilding the suspension is fairly simple.
The upper ball joints can be really tight. You need the special ball joint socket and a pretty good impact gun to remove and install them.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10213-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003IOEQ1O

Need a way to press out the bushings. Originally, I used a cheap HF hydraulic press. Now that I have a OTC Ball Joint press, I use it.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-6530-Service-Kit/dp/B000O1C396

There are also some specific press kits from Mancinni Racing.
https://www.manciniracing.com/frsuto.html

The Torsen bar removal tool in nice to have, but not needed if removing the lower control arms.

I used PST Poly bushing kit on the '71 Charger with their front and rear sway bars.
I used the Mopar Performance 0.960" bars "Street Handling" That are a size larger than the 440/Hemi 0.920" Torsen bars. They are also less expensive than the 0.920", and 1.03" bars. The ride with the old KYB gas shocks is pretty good, a bit on the firm side a bit like a modern passenger car.
Same 0.960" bars in my '69 Coronet R/T with the RCD Bilstein shocks the ride is not as firm, but it had stock sway bar.

It seems the stiffer 1.03" Torsen bars are popular? I haven't used them, but I'm sure some one on the forum has them. Maybe they will comment on ride quality.

If looking for stock replacement bushings, Moog has them, and sell problem solver versions too.

If you want more caster adjustment than stock, an adjustable lower strut rod allows moving the lower control arm forward/back a slight amount, where the stock strut rod is non-adjustable, so caster adjustment is limited with the upper control arm adjustments.

 

[RockyPat]

Your build ideas sound very similar to what I did with my Satellite. It started out as a 318/904 with a smaller rear axle. Bench seat, column shift, standard instrument cluster, etc. One of the few options was A/C. I ended up getting a GTX that had severe rust issues as a parts donor for much of the changes I made.
I don't have a parts list to help but I would suggest getting a service manual and using the sub sections to organize your thoughts. As you make your decisions such as factory front discs vs. aftermarket you can figure out the parts you need, or ask for advice and parts suggestions.
Some systems like front suspension are best to get a kit so you do everything at once instead of piecemeal.

Thanks for the comment. I have thought about a parts car, but I am limited on space. I have not thought about a service manual. That is a great idea. I agree with you. I'll try to take things piece by piece and ask more specific questions.

 

[RockyPat]

I have basically the same car. I don't have a part's list but I have found different things from different places to put mine together. It is not all mopar part's but what I put together works well. If you don't have ac and you want it, that was one of my biggest headaches. PM me on what I've done if you want to know.

Thanks for the reply. My car actually has A/C. I think I am going to go in the same direction as you with my build. Your car is very nice, and its good to know that mine has potential.

 

[RockyPat]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showcase/la-to-b.5531/

Thank you very much for this thread. Very good information. Awesome car and build man!

 

[RockyPat]

I do not think anyone can give you a specific parts list to restore your car. Some things may be reusable, some not. When doing a drive train swap some things are available aftermarket, some not and must be sourced used. Depending on what small parts are still with the used parts you buy like shift levers and rods, braking component's on the spindles and/or axles, etc. will determine what you still need to buy.

Do you want a more sporty feel to the car, or soft stock ride? Poly bushings firm up the suspension and give the car a sports car feel. Stock rubber bushings will provide a factory like softer ride. Up to you want you want, or a mix and match of the two bushing types.

PST, Firm Feel, and others will have suspension kits, but they cost more than sourcing separately from Rock Auto or Ebay sellers. Up to you.

Switching to a center console requires all the shift linkage, lever arms, and bell crank to fit the trans you will be using. Some is available new, but very pricey. Finding used is much cheaper, but you have to piece it all together. That is where the factory service manual is a must have.

It will be a fun project for you if you like puzzles. My suggestion is to do it one system at a time. Say front end suspension and brakes. Dissasemble, reconditon the parts you will be reusing. Rebuild each piece and re assemble.

Thank you for the message. You are right. I need to figure out what exactly I am looking for to get a better idea of what parts to get for my car.
I like the sporty feel, so I will probably looking for poly bushings. I am not sure if I am going to go with a kit or not for the suspension.
I actually have all the shift linkage etc for a center console. I have the complete package, so that is done.
The service manual seems like a very important thing to have.

I will try my best to work with one system at a time. I like puzzles!

 

[RockyPat]

If you have the right tools, rebuilding the suspension is fairly simple.
The upper ball joints can be really tight. You need the special ball joint socket and a pretty good impact gun to remove and install them.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10213-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003IOEQ1O

Need a way to press out the bushings. Originally, I used a cheap HF hydraulic press. Now that I have a OTC Ball Joint press, I use it.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-6530-Service-Kit/dp/B000O1C396

There are also some specific press kits from Mancinni Racing.
https://www.manciniracing.com/frsuto.html

The Torsen bar removal tool in nice to have, but not needed if removing the lower control arms.

I used PST Poly bushing kit on the '71 Charger with their front and rear sway bars.
I used the Mopar Performance 0.960" bars "Street Handling" That are a size larger than the 440/Hemi 0.920" Torsen bars. They are also less expensive than the 0.920", and 1.03" bars. The ride with the old KYB gas shocks is pretty good, a bit on the firm side a bit like a modern passenger car.
Same 0.960" bars in my '69 Coronet R/T with the RCD Bilstein shocks the ride is not as firm, but it had stock sway bar.

It seems the stiffer 1.03" Torsen bars are popular? I haven't used them, but I'm sure some one on the forum has them. Maybe they will comment on ride quality.

If looking for stock replacement bushings, Moog has them, and sell problem solver versions too.

If you want more caster adjustment than stock, an adjustable lower strut rod allows moving the lower control arm forward/back a slight amount, where the stock strut rod is non-adjustable, so caster adjustment is limited with the upper control arm adjustments.

Thanks for the comment. I appreciate all of your part and tool recommendations.

PST seems like a great option for a suspension rebuild.

Good to know about the 0.960" bars. I will look into them.

I will look into Moog's catalog to see what they offer.

I will look into caster adjustments. I have to research this more to understand what you are saying.