1971 Charger SE In Reno, Nevada

[69a100]

Under the distributor cap looks good. I usually hook an external gas tank up and bypass all the nasty who knows what stuff in the actual fuel tank and lines. I go external gas tank to mechanical pump, to carb. The pump works but unknown what the carb is like. Ive poored gas into the carb with no luck so far. Close but no cigar yet.

Looking good under the cap doesn't mean diddly-squat, your gap could be out to lunch, bad condenser, etc.! Oh wait, 71's got elec. ignig, but still check everything thoroughly! If you haven't done the external tank yet, do it and see what happens. Your filter could be gunked up too? Looking down the carb as you go blip the throttle to full throttle, do you get a good squirt of gas into the carb with the tank or external tank?
How many times & how long have you been cranking the motor to get it to fire? You still may need more prime in the carb before it will fire?
I can't think of much else? Good Luck

 

[diesel_lv]

If you are priming straight down the carb w fresh fuel, I wouldn't be inclined to think fuel. I started a junkyard 454 that was fuel injected and fuel lines cut by pouring fuel down intake

 

[Hey-O]

Welcome from Missouri!!

 

[Researcher]

If you are priming straight down the carb w fresh fuel, I wouldn't be inclined to think fuel. I started a junkyard 454 that was fuel injected and fuel lines cut by pouring fuel down intake

Ya thats what I am doing. Maybe a shot glass full worth of gas and then try and start.

Ive also considered replacing the coil. Should I get one with the ballast resistor already in it or keep the external method I have right now?

 

[70chall440]

Welcome, I just bought a 71 as well, mine is completely apart though. I am going G3 Hemi in mine but if you need a 71 date code 383 and a complete exhaust system let me know.

 

[68sprtsat383]

Welcome

 

[Researcher]

Welcome, I just bought a 71 as well, mine is completely apart though. I am going G3 Hemi in mine but if you need a 71 date code 383 and a complete exhaust system let me know.

I’ll let you know but I’ll probably pass. I have a numbers matching car and if the motor needs a rebuild then a rebuild it will get.

 

[Researcher]

 

[Researcher]

 

[HD539]

Welcome from the Pacific Northwest

 

[Budnicks]

if it's not a fuel or carb issue
sounded like it was trying to start, either lack of fuel or low spark

plug wire could be rotted too, way too much resistance if they are

how do the points look ?
if any **** on them, file them & check the gap too
cap & rotor looks ok, in that photo

if it sat for a long time the points could be all corroded up

like I said in an earlier post it could be the coil
check these, disconnect the wires & keep track of where they went

 

[Researcher]

if it's not a fuel or carb issue
sounded like it was trying to start, either lack of fuel or low spark

plug wire could be rotted too, way too much resistance if they are

how do the points look ?
if any **** on them, file them & check the gap too
cap & rotor looks ok, in that photo

if it sat for a long time the points could be all corroded up

like I said in an earlier post it could be the coil
check these, disconnect the wires & keep track of where they went
View attachment 993777

View attachment 993778 View attachment 993780

Thanks for the picture. I will check that. I have the cylindrical ballast resistor that attaches right to the coil. I will try and look up the measurement for that one.

 

[Budnicks]

Thanks for the picture. I will check that. I have the cylindrical ballast resistor that attaches right to the coil. I will try and look up the measurement for that one.

that cylindrical resister
is probably a noise suppressor for the radio
(I may be wrong), you should have a ballast resistor on the firewall

also you may want to check
the main wiring bulkhead connections that go thru the firewall
could be all rusted, oxidized or all corroded up
it will be brittle & be very careful when unplugging any of it
clean the contacts, both sides
& use a little dielectric grease on the connections

you could have an issue with the fusible link
almost all the way blown too, hanging on by a thread/stran
it's up by the Starter relay on the firewall too

all this is just spitballing

go to www.mymopar.com
& use the tool & reference, it has wiring diagrams
a great resource for info

I'd highly suggest getting a Factory Service manual
for that specific year & model too (71 Charger)

good luck

 

[Researcher]

Thanks all for the help. I think I got it. Made a quick trip to summit racing for new plug wires, coil, and an electronic ignition conversion. Swapped it all, put a new battery in, rechecked timing and it almost sputtered to life on a little bit of gas.

Next up a carb rebuild, new fuel filter, and external gas tank setup.

 

[70chall440]

Thank god I don't live near a Summit store... I'd have to have an allotment there.

 

[Researcher]

Thank god I don't live near a Summit store... I'd have to have an allotment there.

Their scratch and dent section has ended many marriages. Blessing and a curse.

 

[Ironbuilt]

Welcome from North Carolina.

 

[Builderguy]

Welcome aboard Sir, from the middle of the mitten.

 

[Researcher]

Where is middle of the mitten?

 

[Researcher]

Any thoughts? It almost runs. The carb wasnt bolted down very well, you can see it shaking in the video. Vacuum leak maybe? I pulled the carb to rebuild it but looks like it is working pretty well from the second video or is there something I am missing.

All vacuum lines were pretty rotted except vacuum advance. Gonna replace them all anyways.

It almost runs by itself.