im betting your upper control arm bolt(s) are loose and letting the A arm slide around. that rear bolt adjuster is all the way in, which why your tire is leaning in. you need to loosen the rear bolt, and slightly loosen the front one, and with the tire on and in the air, pull out on the top, until the wheel looks straight up and down. I cant believe an alignment shop could not figure this out.
these bolts have to be TIGHT, but don't break them. I use a cheater on my ratchet when I tighten these.
this adjuster should be about halfway out or so , all cars vary, but its a good starting point. from the dark spot, it looks as though it was all the way out and has moved.
it is easier to move the A arms around with all the tension off of the torsion bars, but then you will need to reset the ride height after you get the wheels straight up and down. then reset the toe. make sure you do this on flat garage floor or pad.
ive done enough of these and so many times , that I just eyeball the caster and camber. but you can use a framing square , or pay some professional shop, but I choose to do it myself. I try to equal out the caster on both sides, then the camber , then the ride height , then the toe.
I have seen a lot of K member shift because the design was poor in that, moisture gets trapped between the bushings , K member and frame rails and starts to rust creating weak points. over time the bushings go away and everything loosens up. LCA bushings wear out making more problems. if I were you I would replace the K member , LCA and UCA bushings. its not hard to do, as long as the K member bolts are not rusted. you can do them one at a time with the engine in the car and without removing the K member
I have seen them so bad there was virtually no metal left between the bushings and K member.
chances are its going to be different from side to side because these cars were built with tolerances and not exact specs, so you cant rely on one side to set the other.
