1973 charger rallye Help!!

[icecat66]

New to site just got a 1973 charger rallye (800.00) needs full interior.. what years will fit?
Any and all help is awesome thanks

 

[Clay Dots]

Seat covers are year specific, thus u need 1973 frames and springs shoud be interchangable 1971-1974 chargers.. wecome, best wishes!

 

[icecat66]

Thanks

 

[callofthemopar]

I would stick to 73-74 donor car or new parts for door, C pillar & headliner. There maybe slight differences between 71/72 to 73/74 doors. the dash & seats appear to be the same. I have a 73 with many 72 parts.

 

[YY1]

Some 72 stuff is the same as 73/74.

Buckets are the same pattern, so are SE door panels.

Biggest difference is sail panel, and is year and model specific.

I have a nearly complete 73/74 tan interior I'm looking to sell, but I think you might be too far to make shipping affordable.

Vinyl back seat is nice, cloth back seat needs work, and I have either a high back cloth bench or ratty buckets and buddy seat.

 

[icecat66]

FL to PA that might be salty haha... but as it is going might be worth it to have the whole thing done.. hard to find any way we could get a ball park figure on the total (+) shipping....

 

[YY1]

Let me get some pics.

PM me your email.

I forgot to say, it's an SE interior, so the rear sail panels will be different (If I even have them).

What color is the car? I'll have some 74 jade green stuff, too.

 

[icecat66]

The current state of the car is in my profile pic and in my gallery. Color can be what I want it at this point....

 

[73runner]

If I read this right.... You scored the car for $800.00. You did good as it has the hideaway lights and is probably a well optioned car. It worth at least $800 in parts if not more as a good build platform. Any idea what the original engine was?

As stated previously, a lot of the 74 and 74 parts are interchangeable.

First step is to read the build plate to know what you have... It's located on the driver's side fender around where the washer reservoir would be. If you post a good picture, I'm sure someone on the site can read it for you.

Also, key to any build is to assess the rust issues.... We all have some, so don't be shy.

If it all checks out and it makes sense to build the car, then I recommend you get a factory service manual for it (available on ebay for around $50 bucks).

Finally.... You found us. That and the car were two very good steps to making your Mopar dream a reality. You'll find that FBBO is a great source for experience and good advice.

Welcome!!!

 

[icecat66]

Yeah got it for $800.00 from the vin WL21G3A178154 I'm guessing a 318 car price class low. I will have more pic end of week I get the car on Friday... the rust is standard rust but nothing from what I saw that can't be cut out or fixed driver passenger pans need replaced....

 

[tallhair]

Yeah got it for $800.00 from the vin WL21G3A178154 I'm guessing a 318 car price class low. I will have more pic end of week I get the car on Friday... the rust is standard rust but nothing from what I saw that can't be cut out or fixed driver passenger pans need replaced....

Welcome and yes it's was 318 and made at the Lynch Rd assy plant.


http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=84

 

[icecat66]

Thanks for the site link great info... like I said any and all help is awesome...

 

[YY1]

If you haven't done so already, check the cowl area, esp around the vent.

remove the plastic grilles, and stick you arm in as far as it can go to feel the vent "stack". If this area is rusted through, it could be a project killer.

As stated those headlights (appear to be 72) are probably a $400 item by themselves.

Also look closely at the places where the K frame bolts to the frame rails.

I'll get my interior pics within a few days.

They are stored at a different location.

I also have a new in the box tan carpet and headliner.

 

[icecat66]

If you haven't done so already, check the cowl area, esp around the vent.

remove the plastic grilles, and stick you arm in as far as it can go to feel the vent "stack". If this area is rusted through, it could be a project killer.

As stated those headlights (appear to be 72) are probably a $400 item by themselves.

Also look closely at the places where the K frame bolts to the frame rails.

I'll get my interior pics within a few days.

They are stored at a different location.

I also have a new in the box tan carpet and headliner.

Will do thanks for the info hope its not rusted is that a common project killer?

 

[YY1]

That vent stack is on the passenger side.

There are about 700 spot welds and up to five laminated sheet metal sections that might have to be removed to fix that area!! Labor intensive, to say the least.

It's fairly common, as is a rusted out section below the windshield.
Might as well take that chrome off and look there, too.

That chrome traps rain, and dirt.

The cowl plenum traps leaves and rainwater.

Sheet metal that stays damp for long periods of time tends to rust.

Look at the panel joints in between the hinges for the front doors.
If they're nice, that's a good sign.
If the floors unded the dash are clean, that's a good sign, too.

 

[icecat66]

I know that both driver and passenger floor pans need replaced they have holes in both not large but they are there... the trunk has a hole due to someone drilling it out for a fuel cell.... the quarters have rust in the lower corner of the wheel wells. All the glass is there all the lights are there turn signals and such... if it turns out to be unfixable I'm in it $800.00...
Now if it is worth it think it is from first looks but you never know what are motor options for those cars... guy said it had a 440 in it when he got it I would like to avoid 70's motors only cuz I hear they were toned down HP wise in the 70's...

 

[YY1]

That mymopar.com link has factory compression and HP ratings for motors from the early 60s to about 1974.

The main difference was the piston, and a secondary difference is the head chamber vaolume.

Before you do anything else, go feel that cowl and vent stack.

...but rest assured you have at least $400 in parts, and likely enough to get your money back and matbe make a few bucks.

Tell us what you find under the lower windshield trim and in the cowl plenum...and the K frame bolt areas.


...and factory big block cars had a different inner fender on one side.

If you want to do that, there will be cutting involved.

 

[icecat66]

OK yeah pick it up Friday so fingers crossed on the rust your talking about.....

 

[73runner]

That mymopar.com link has factory compression and HP ratings for motors from the early 60s to about 1974.

The main difference was the piston, and a secondary difference is the head chamber vaolume.

Before you do anything else, go feel that cowl and vent stack.

...but rest assured you have at least $400 in parts, and likely enough to get your money back and matbe make a few bucks.

Tell us what you find under the lower windshield trim and in the cowl plenum...and the K frame bolt areas.


...and factory big block cars had a different inner fender on one side.

If you want to do that, there will be cutting involved.

that rust is a killer.... There are several posts listing the repair procedure.... YY1 is absolutely and completely correct on it being a project killer... Unless you are emotionally attached or really handy with a welder....

So check the cowl for rust before you invest another dime.

 

[icecat66]

Get my car today and I was looking at the pics you guys have me freaking out about the rust in the cowl... I noticed did they came with chrome lower windshield trim or is that some fly by night patch someone put on...