2 types of seam sealer for floor pan?

[musekmkr]

I removed all of the seam sealer from the floor pan in preparation for some TLC before I add new carpet. The sill area and where the rear pan meets the front pan had a rather brittle, black seam sealer that was easily removed, whereas the corners of the rear inner wells (where the bottom of the rear interior panel meets the well) and also where the floor meets the fire wall, had a very hard, white seam sealer which seemed to be over bare metal. Is that all this is? Bare metal seam sealer? I just order some brushable seam sealer to replace the back sealer but I'm wondering if I need something else to replace the white sealer? Appreciate any feedback you can provide.

 

[R413]

They used all black in the cars in the early 60’s until a bosses wife got that black stuff on the luggage in the trunk. The black stuff stays soft. So a change came and where it was possible to come in contact with the sealer they used the white stuff because it fully dries.

 

[musekmkr]

That's pretty funny and I can see that being true. However this sealer is under the carpet but what you described, as far as how each sealer cures, definitely seems to be the case. That white stuff was much more difficult to remove than the black. The black is still fairly soft but that white was rock hard in some cases. Do you know what a good replacement for the white sealer would be?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I use the brushable and easy to smooth out with a damp finger in a rubber glove also.

 

[haywire 440]

This product worked great for me. It took a whole quart to do the inside floor seams. I had purchased two. Better to have too much.

The advice I received here and elsewhere on the proper factory application is to do this job after having lunch and 6 beers.
That is if your are looking for the concourse “look”. LOL

Oh, and use the acid paint brushes with the round steel handles. The cheap bag of them are sold at HF or other stores.
Good luck and this stuff sticks good to skin.

 

[musekmkr]

Thank you for that. I was just thinking I'd try to replicate the white seam sealer in the places I removed it from. Both types appear to have been brushed on but they were definitely not the same.

I bought a qt of brushable seam sealer from Eastwood. I typically don't buy from them but it was 15 bucks after applying an online coupon and free shipping. Couldn't pass that up...

I read about Wurth here and I am familiar with that brand back from my days of working at BMW. They make really good stuff. It seems to be a little hard to come by so I just went with the Eastwood brand.

I'll do some more research about the white stuff and why it was used in certain places. Because now I'm just curious ;)

 

[haywire 440]

Good deal on the Eastwood and it will be good. The white sealer is, I believe, a round ribbon of puddy that could be used as a water shield in those areas. I think it stays pliable. Maybe like plumbers puddy. But I’m no expert like some here, just a shade tree taught, but learning son of a gun.

 

[musekmkr]

Good deal on the Eastwood and it will be good. The white sealer is, I believe, a round ribbon of puddy that could be used as a water shield in those areas. I think it stays pliable. Maybe like plumbers puddy. But I’m no expert like some here, just a shade tree taught, but learning son of a gun.

I assume you are speaking of strip caulk. It doesn't really seem like that to me as I am used to this stuff staying rather gooey, even over time. That stuff I removed was very tough.

I took a look in the FSM and at the beginning of seam sealer section, they talk about "Body Seam Sealers (for exterior sealing)" and "Heavy Sealing Putty (for interior sealing)", which does sound a bit like strip caulk. And then they go on to describe certain interior sealing areas as "bead" sealer and then "ball" sealer, which I would assume is referring to the two sealers mentioned...respectively. The diagrams below, where they refer to "ball" sealer is exactly where I found this stuff. Although I did find it used all along the seam where the front floor pan meets the firewall.

I included some of my own pics of this stuff and as funny as this sounds, I did find a fingerprint in the putty where they clearly mashed this "ball" sealer into this area during its assembly. That does seem to indicate this was once a putty like substance that over time became rock hard. Either this is some special stuff that's no longer available/used or it is similar (if not the exact same) as the stuff we know as strip caulk. And maybe this stuff does get somewhat petrified after years and years and becomes rock hard. The other important point that I had mentioned earlier is that all of these areas were bare metal, including the floor to firewall seam.

 

[haywire 440]

Strip caulk, yes, we are on the same page. Honestly I forget what I used in those areas.

Here the photos from my resealed job. It funny after doing all that work it all gets covered up. But at least the seals are the best they can be.

The pictures got out of order but you’ll figure that out. That first photo shows the sealant with White showing in the disturbed area.

Definitely no paint under the sealant.

An then the top coats and almost finished project, which is/has been completed.

 

[musekmkr]

Wow thanks for that. Very nice job btw! Do you recall if it was more difficult to remove the sealer where the front floor pan meets the firewall...4 years ago ? What did you use after you sealed? Epoxy primer then base/clear? Thanks for this.

 

[haywire 440]

I don’t think it was harder other then getting under the dash.
The primer and paint are Rustoleom products applied with a paint brush, two coats each. No spraying.

 

[musekmkr]

That looks pretty damn good for brushing. I contemplated doing that as well. Sounds much easier than having to mask everything off and I'm sure the fumes aren't as bad as an aerosol.

 

[JR_Charger]

I'm having to redo the white sealer in my trunk, due to surface rust getting under it and loosening it up. In 72 it was not applied to bare metal, there's a black coating under it. Then paint over the sealer. I'm planning to put down rust converter, then sealer, then paint.