383 max bore.

[Dougrunyan]

Just one more thing to ask. My motor is already bored 30. If it need's to be bored again what is the safe amount on the B 383 with out having heat issues. Know some block's have more metal in the area of oil ports and water port's. This will make me feel better with the build. Their is a crust ring at the top but till the motor shop get's it wont know how far we will have to take the bore. Thanks for any info and appreciate all the comment's on the cam shaft it was a lot of help. Blue69Runner.

I have put many miles on my 383 and it is bored to .060.

 

[Slap Stick]

Add .060 to the stock bore of a 383. Then look at the stock bore of a 400.
You decide.

 

[33 IMP]

426 wedge block, bored .070 over, for standard bore 440 pistons. Ive got one, no complaints .

 

[blue69runner]

Well to bring you guy's up to date. Got a stock bored block in on Friday and took it to the machine shop to day. My Machine guy is happy with it. Got it off E bay out of Troy Michigan. Took a while on the shipping to get it to me but I am happy. So now we can move on with getting it built. Going to have a short block done by him and the head's are just about ready with hardened seat in them. May have it back in my hands by the first of the year.

 

[Cranky]

Without reading every single post....anyone mention sonic testing it so see what the wall thickness is?

 

[blue69runner]

Did not want to start a new thread so using this on. On My 68 HP 383 having a problem finding connecting rod's that have the pressed in wrist pin like the original ones and piston's. Any Ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Guy's. Blue.

 

[Charles Cook]

Hey Russ it’s Mike, if you’re still looking for rods give me a call, I may have a set.

 

[Cranky]

Did not want to start a new thread so using this on. On My 68 HP 383 having a problem finding connecting rod's that have the pressed in wrist pin like the original ones and piston's. Any Ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Guy's. Blue.

I do have a set if Mike doesn't....

 

[blue69runner]

Just to put this issue to rest. Decided to go with floating pin connecting rods and forged pressed pin piston's. So I can put new connecting rod's in the motor. Other guy's have stated like I think. That those old rod's have a lot of miles on them and they would not trust them either. So thanks to all for your help. blue69runner

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Make sure your pistons you are getting have a snap ring groove to go free floating or you will have to find someone to machine in a groove.

 

[blue69runner]

The connecting rod is floating and the piston is press fit. That is what I decided on. So hope that will work out.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

The connecting rod is floating and the piston is press fit. That is what I decided on. So hope that will work out.

Any piston can run a press fit rod. But to run a floating wrist pin the piston needs something to keep the pin centered. Typically a internal snap ring. Some of the cheaper forged pistons like sealed power do not have a place for a snap ring. Some pistons do, most of the premium forged piston do. Just make sure the pistons your getting have a snap ring groove.

 

[blue69runner]

Got you. You know I could not find any connecting rod with non floating wrist pin. So the connecting rod will have floating pin and piston will be press fit not floating so should not need the snap ring. Hope I said this rite. building stock do you think I need valve relief's in the piston. The old flat top's I had in the motor did not. Thanks for info. blue

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Unfortunately...that won't work. The rod is what holds the wrist pin in place and the ones your buying the rods are bushed and the pin will slide right through. Only way forward is make it free floating w your piston choice, or go back to a original rod. Your right no aftermarket pressed fit pin for the b....that i have seen. Could go to a 440 rod and use a shorter piston.

 

[blue69runner]

Ok will keep that in mind for sure. Thanks for the help. blue