4-speed confusion

[dryheat]

I am so confused.

I am planning to convert my 64 Polara from a push-button to a 4-speed. I am gathering parts and researching as much as possible but I am still getting confused.

There appear to be A833 transmissions with different tail shafts on them. In looking at some of those advertised as fitting B-body cars there is a single mounting area for the shifter. Some mounting points are in front of the cross member mount and some are after.

I was hoping someone with a 64 B-body has a picture of an installed 66 and up 4-speed so I can make sure I get the correct one.

 

[mattsmopars]

In 1970 they started to put a B and E body shifter mount on the tail housing. The front mount is a B body mount and the rear is and E body mount for most cases. The 69 and down A833 have the single shifter mount. One other thing to note is in 1970 they standardized the transmission mount for A833 and 727 auto so there would only be a need for one transmission cross member. Before that there were specific automatic and 4 speed cross members. 1964-65 4 speeds are ball and trunion type and 66 and up are slip yoke style. I changed a 65 coronet that was a 361 BB auto 727 to a 383 4 speed. I used a 68 23 spline 4 speed, 65 model bellhousing and brackets, early b body 4 speed cross member, and the original 727 slip yoke drive shaft. If you have any other questions I might could help with feel free to Pm me here.
Good luck, Matt

 

[cryplydog]

Hi dryheat, I've done the conversion several times and have owned and worked on these cars for many years so as Matt said in the above post, feel free to PM me. good luck!

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Go to Brewers Performance and look at their on line catalog. A wealth of information showing correct parts. There are more variations than a person might realize, and to make things work correctly , you need compatable parts. I thought I had all the right stuff gathered , but it just didn't go together right. Found out it was the pivot for the fork, inside the bell house.......................MO

 

[Darter6]

If you need stick clutch and brake pedal set up, I will trade you for your automatic brake pedal set up.Mine is from a 63 Belvedere.

 

[64 Post]

Just wanted to add that the auto and 4 speed 64-65 crossmember are basically the same except for the mounting pad location. If you can't find the 4 speed specific crossmember the auto can be easily modified for 4 speed use.

 

[dryheat]

Thank you all for your help and advise.

I did pickup a 68 b-body trans that should arrive on Friday. I will need to measure the bearing retainer so I can source the correct bell housing.

I also acquired the z-bar assembly and the associated linkage along with a new Hurst shifter and linkage.

I think my next quest will be for a 10.5 130 tooth neutral balance flywheel for my cask crank. If this is not what I need please let me know.

Just wanted to add that the auto and 4 speed 64-65 crossmember are basically the same except for the mounting pad location. If you can't find the 4 speed specific crossmember the auto can be easily modified for 4 speed use.

I was planning to use the transmission mount from Schumacher so in theory no modifications to the cross member are required.

If you need stick clutch and brake pedal set up, I will trade you for your automatic brake pedal set up.Mine is from a 63 Belvedere.

Darter6 .. I will send you a PM on the trade for the pedals.

Thanks again.

 

[Redman440]

I would also recommend Jamie Passon http://www.passonperformance.com/ He is a straight shooter and very knowledgeable. He did the conversion on my 65 Coronet and I am very happy.

 

[Centerline]

I think my next quest will be for a 10.5 130 tooth neutral balance flywheel for my cask crank. If this is not what I need please let me know.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but if you're running a cast crank you'll need an externally balanced flywheel and an internally (neutral) balanced unit if your engine has a forged crank. Its my understanding that most forged cranks are internal and cast are external balanced.

440 Source has a 130 tooth flywheel that has a removable weight that can be used for either internal or external balanced engines. If its internal balanced you just remove the bolted on weight. If its external balanced leave it on. http://store.440source.com/1045-Billet-Steel-Flywheel-New/productinfo/113-1014/

 

[dryheat]

Thank you Centerline. After doing some additional research I believe you are correct. Of course I did the additional research AFTER I purchased a neutral balance flywheel. The flywheel is in very nice shape so I think I will just drop it off at the local machine shop and let them do their internal or external magic.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but if you're running a cast crank you'll need an externally balanced flywheel and an internally (neutral) balanced unit if your engine has a forged crank. Its my understanding that most forged cranks are internal and cast are external balanced.

440 Source has a 130 tooth flywheel that has a removable weight that can be used for either internal or external balanced engines. If its internal balanced you just remove the bolted on weight. If its external balanced leave it on. http://store.440source.com/1045-Billet-Steel-Flywheel-New/productinfo/113-1014/

I was very skeptical about that 440 Source flywheel, but I got one. Looks well built, fit perfect , works good. But who knows how many RPM it can take and how well it works in the long run. I would not recommend it for drag racing.............................MO

 

[Centerline]

I agree. I wouldn't use it for racing either, but for street use it should work just fine.