4 Speed conversion - /6 to 383

[BigFlo]

I've got a 65 Belvedere with /6, 3 speed manual on the column. I plan to keep my front bench seat. I have a 68 383 that I want to drop in and I want to add a 4 speed. Besides putting in a new floor tunnel section in the floor, I'd like to have this as much of a bolt-on as possible because custom modifications are probably above my skill level - this is my first major restoration project. From what I've been able to research, I'll need the following major parts to make this work.
- 10.5" clutch and bellhousing with 4.35" input dia
- A833 from '66 thru '69 would be best
- 4 speed trans crossmember
- New Driveshaft - if anyone has done this swap and knows what standard driveshafts will drop in, please let me know.
- Horizontal Z-Bar - someone recommended that the heavier one used for bigblocks should be used.

Any and all advice is welcome!!

 

[Basoline]

Get the parts you need from exactly year and model. For example, you will find that a bellhousing from a 69 charger will fit on the engine (same bolt patern) but will give you a hard time fitting the Z-bar. A833 66-69 will though...

Look no further: www.brewersperformance.com is a real blessing to do business with. Mr. Brewers will have EVERYTHING you need.

 

[BigFlo]

I've looked at Brewers Perf - too expensive for my budget, so I'm going to try and find the parts on my own. So am I on the right track here or does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Meep-Meep]

You won't need to change the tunnel - just cut the hole for the shifter and rods. I did the conversion years ago on my 68 RR and it wasn't that hard. most of the stuff I did I was able to do while still driving the car. Cut the hole, add the pedal (nice that you already have it), weld the ball stud bracket on the frame, etc... Finding the parts on your own is a good way to save money but it may take you a while to get it together. You will need a different drive shaft for sure.

 

[BigFlo]

Thanks Meep. I know that there can be problems with everything lining up properly and all the geometries on this conversion, since I'm combining different year parts... so I'm trying to confirm my research with those that have experience doing it. I'm pretty sure that all these part will line up preperly in my '65.

 

[moperformance]

In the beginning the hardest part i found is "indexing" the Z bar from one application to another (year make or model). Second is aligning the Z bar betwen the frame brkt and the bellhousing. After the frame brkt is in, make a cardboard template to locate the ball against the bellhousing so the Z bar is straight across betwen the two. by pushing on the cardboard against the two mounting holes on the bellhousing the hole locations are marked.Take the template and transfer it to 1/4 in plate.When the Z bar is in place,attach the arm running from the clutch pedal to the outside arm. If the geometry is off on the inside arm that pushes in the clutch fork take the Z bar out and cut it in half about in the middle.insert a 1/2 in od section of pipe inside and put the two parts back together.Put the Z bar back in. Now the two end arms can be located where they need to be (put in the clutch fork rod) Put a tack weld to hold the two halves together and then have someone push in the clutch peddle while you watch underneath to make sure everything works properly. this may take a couple of attempts at removing the tack and rotating the arms until it's just right. But all of this sounds a lot harder then it really is once you get stared. I've done 5 "conversions" this way and never had any issues after everythings done. Don't forget to weld the Z bar completely around once you find the correct orientation. GOOD LUCK!

 

[Grumpy]

Hey Bill, you sound like a good guy to know.
I'm doing my first conversion and it's on a 68 Coronet that currently has a 318 I'm going to yank. Think I have all the parts I need EXCEPT FOR throw out bearing and clutch fork. I wrote to Brewer's (waiting for reply) about a #2468370 bell housing I have (believe was for '66) asking if I can use it, then just get a 130 flywheel and 10.5 clutch and pressure plate.

1) Do you know if this bell housing will work with what I want it to do.
2) The toughest part I see here is locating the frame bracket for welding.

Thanks!
Grumpy

 

[moperformance]

I've always tried to use the original frame brkt since most everything coming through the firewall depends on it's location. on your 68 if i rem right there is a hole already in the side panel connected to the shock tower to be able to tighten the nut that holds the ball to the btkt. this will locate the ball/pivot if you have to make a bracket to hold it. welding it in place is a treat but doable. I'll check and see what I have in the 10 1/2' fork stuff as I bought a couple dozen off ebay over the years as stash for projects. The bellhousing should work just don't start until you've got all the pieces to mock it up first.

 

[Grumpy]

Gotcha, and THANK YOU.

Since I'm just gathering parts right now and talking via email to Wayne at Brewer's as well, my head is kind of spinning.

I think the thing that I didn't expect was having to either bore out the crankshaft or cut the pilot down on the 833. Since the engine is already built and I broke in cam as I usually do on my test stand machining the crank while it's out is not an option.
(this 4 speed thing was all an after thought)

Wayne suggested that I can cut down (how much?) the pilot on the trans and use their PB876 bushing in the register. (of course he doesn't prefer the cutting the pilot down method).

I've got most of the parts accumulated now and either new or that I restored with the exception of the clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing, fork and a few things I'm sure that I've forgotten. The flywheel I have (NEW) from my break in stand I had gotten a while back from Summit. Nothing fancy, just a RAM1503 which is a 30 tooth to use with a 10.5" or 10.95" clutch.

Brewer's has a Hayes 10.5" street package that should work okay I guess.

I'm going to have nightmares about cutting the pilot down.

Grumpy