4 speed troubles, what do we need for starters.....

bandit67

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Guys, got my used A833 installed and just began putting some miles on it. Ok, the problems, its quite noisy in 2nd and 3rd gear, and much quieter in 4th. I think that would be cured with new bearings. Ok, it will shift into 2nd, but pops out if not held in. I just swapped in a new Compation Plus shifter in this morning from Brewers and it made the shifting much crisper than an old Hurst original , very worn, shifter I was using. In planning for a rebuild, I know I need new bearing, but what is needed to cure the popping out of gear, a new slider, and/or a new second gear and/or possible shifter fork. Do these manuals have brass blocking rings as do Muncies? Some folks call these synchronizers , but I think the actual syncros, are cut into the gear itself? I know one cannot know for sure what may needed until its cracked open for a look, but I would like to get parts I know will be needed before I pull it apart.....thanks....
 

AR67GTX

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Be sure the shift stops on the Hurst are properly adjusted. If they are set too tight the transmission wont go all the way in gear and you may hear a buzzing sound as the engagement teeth are grinding against each other and it won’t fully engage, or the transmission may kick out of gear due to partial engagement. However, I don’t think the shift stop affects second gear.
 

bobsgtx

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Time to pull it out and pull it apart and find out what is good and what isn't.
 

wagonman

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What bobsgtx said. Pulling the side cover should give you a good idea of the condition of the teeth on the gear and blocker rings. Not much different than a Muncie for wear and the problems that go with it just a better Trans and a bit more $$ for hard parts. Brewers has good stuff and info.
 

davek

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check linkage first also you might have a bad SYNCHRONIZER
 

John Milner

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You can't really see if the sliders are worn until you tear it apart so you can look at the teeth inside the slider that grabs the gear. You can check the teeth on the synchronizers and engagement teeth on the gears by pulling the side cover. However, you really need the transmission tore apart to make sure that the synchronizers are grabbing the cone of the gears like they should. If you are going to tear it apart to swap the front and mid bearings, you might as well replace the synchronizer rings, shifting keys, input needle bearings, thrust washers and needle bearings in the cluster gear.
 

bandit67

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Thanks John M, in my opinion, all the parts you named are the basic minimum parts to replace in a complete teardown. When I do get it apart I am not sure I can accurately determine how much wear on the slider is acceptable or too much wear, unless it is quite obvious. Just thought those with more experience could say with certain, yes, this part is the main culprit at causing it to pop out of this gear. It slides into second gear easy and smoothly, just pops out when I let the clutch out. If I hold it in with the stick, we can ride. SO, Im not happy with it so it IS coming out and apart.....thanks
 
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