• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

440 filled/prepped block

Vrenlos

Active Member
Local time
2:44 PM
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
31
Reaction score
32
Location
Portland, OR
Hi everyone, I'm just getting started on building up a 440 for my 66 charger and picked up a decent shape 440/727 combo last week. This week a 440 block that's been hot tanked, bored .030 over and line honed, and had the deck leveled popped up on Craigslist for a great price including a set of Pro Gram main caps.

The only thing keeping me from immediately picking it up is that it's been hard blok filled up to the bottom of the freeze plugs. This will be for a 500-550hp street motor with TF heads. Thoughts?
 
Pro gram main caps are very nice parts. I’ve used them before.

The block filling would make me worry about (possibly and oil cooler to help) cooling the engine during street driving.
That’s just an opinion (maybe an erroneous one at that) as I’ve never owned a filled block.
 
Pro gram main caps are very nice parts. I’ve used them before.

The block filling would make me worry about (possibly and oil cooler to help) cooling the engine during street driving.
That’s just an opinion (maybe an erroneous one at that) as I’ve never owned a filled block.

That's exactly my concern...though from what I've read up to the bottom of the plugs *should* be ok. In the end though, this block plus those caps for about half of just what the caps usually run might be too good to pass up.

Not to mention that this was someone locally prepping a race motor vs the unknown condition block I have now that will need, at a minimum, a hot tank plus magnaflux and/or sonic test, possible bore cleanup, decking, etc. Maybe I'm just trying to talk myself into it...
 
Hell if it’s priced that good don’t let it pass, either way you have a spare now.
 
oil cooler is good in any case you should be fine
hot spot is between the center exhaust valves
 
If it is a short fill, you will probably be fine for the street. What is the average summer temp in Oregon?
 
If it is a short fill, you will probably be fine for the street. What is the average summer temp in Oregon?
Usually doesn't go much higher than 90. I'm sure with an oil cooler it'll be absolutely fine...and btw I did go and pick it up! It's in a great shape, and the couple selling it had a whole Mopar playground...definitely a good set of contacts to have. Now I have to decide if I'm going to use the stock main caps that have been line honed or use the killer Pro Gram caps he threw in with the sale. Or sell 'em and have myself a mostly free block :lol:
 
I think you will find the partial fill block will work just fine, even in street use. If you have a good water pump & radiator the cooling will be fine. Don't believe the oil temp will change much at all. Just my opinion. My partial filled block sure didn't get hot.
 
I think you will find the partial fill block will work just fine, even in street use. If you have a good water pump & radiator the cooling will be fine. Don't believe the oil temp will change much at all. Just my opinion. My partial filled block sure didn't get hot.
That's what I'm thinking - and I'm going to give it a shot. My car already has a small oil cooler on it, so that should help too. Oregon doesn't get *that* hot.
 
If indeed it is only filled to the bottom of the Frost Plugs ? that is not much of a fill at all, and it should not affect either Cooling or Oil Temps.

Some of the biggest factors to Cooling/Oil Temps is poor Bearing Clearances, and/or exposing too much of the Cylinder Wall/Water Jackets(heat sink) to peak Combustion Temps(Timing & Mixture)
 
If indeed it is only filled to the bottom of the Frost Plugs ? that is not much of a fill at all, and it should not affect either Cooling or Oil Temps.

Some of the biggest factors to Cooling/Oil Temps is poor Bearing Clearances, and/or exposing too much of the Cylinder Wall/Water Jackets(heat sink) to peak Combustion Temps(Timing & Mixture)

That's what I was told, but I haven't had a chance to inspect it closely as of yet. I was slithering around in my crawlspace yesterday, but hopefully I'll get into the garage today!
 
Well, I suppose the fill is up to the bottom of the freeze plugs if you're looking at the block upside-down. :eek:

It looks like it's about 3-3.5" down on the outer part of the block and about 3.5-4" down on the inner/valley side. Now I'm going to have to do some serious thinking. Is the better cooling off the Al heads and an oil cooler enough to help offset it?
 
Well, I suppose the fill is up to the bottom of the freeze plugs if you're looking at the block upside-down. :eek:

It looks like it's about 3-3.5" down on the outer part of the block and about 3.5-4" down on the inner/valley side. Now I'm going to have to do some serious thinking. Is the better cooling off the Al heads and an oil cooler enough to help offset it?

That's kinda what I figured, that it would be filled to the top of the frost plugs, because there is diddly to fill below the plugs ?

I've run them that way plenty for Drag/limited Street(700+) applications with no cooling issues.
Again, good Bearing Clearances/Cooling System I think you are fine, and rather than an actual "Oil Cooler" and plumbing, I would suggest investigating the benefits of AirFlow up and around the Block itself in the Engine Bay ?
Any AirFlow you can direct UP around the Block will help substantially, just like the Fans we direct at the Block itself on the Dyno to aid Engine cooling.
 
Thanks for the data point - it seems most people who have actually run a block like this with decent cooling haven't had issues, and those wagging their fingers at the idea recount tall tales of total meltdowns. I'm going to go for it!

Airflow is also something good to consider - thanks again.
 
Thanks for the data point - it seems most people who have actually run a block like this with decent cooling haven't had issues, and those wagging their fingers at the idea recount tall tales of total meltdowns. I'm going to go for it!

Airflow is also something good to consider - thanks again.

You wouldn't think airflow around the block would amount to squat for cooling, but back in the day in was a major consideration in Engine bay design by all manus. It wasn't until the later emissions stuff and pushing NoX Combustion Temps higher than Engine/water temps also were pushed higher.
If you can, try for airflow around the block, it will help more than you may believe.
 
A lot of that airflow around the block is getting the hot air out
one reason for the spoiler/ valance to create some negative pressure under the car and behind the core support
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top