60 + amp alternator wiring

[Turbobus]

First I must say when I look at wiring diagrams, all I see is spaghetti! Someone was kind enough to send me a color coded wiring diagram, thanks! I’m just now tackling this project and have some questions. In my mind the factory wiring diagram for 60+amp shows #18 pin shares an 8awg with a 12awg wire, unless I’m looking at it wrong, good possibility. Is this the case? It doesn’t say cut and tape back the 12awg from pin 18 like in other locations. Last question or confirmation really, # 16 pin is deleted replaced by a 14awg fusible link from relay followed by a 10awg wire to ammeter. I should also say it’s for a 73 Charger.Thanks for reading and possibly replying!

 

[Turbobus]

First I must say when I look at wiring diagrams, all I see is spaghetti! Someone was kind enough to send me a color coded wiring diagram, thanks! I’m just now tackling this project and have some questions. In my mind the factory wiring diagram for 60+amp shows #18 pin shares an 8awg with a 12awg wire, unless I’m looking at it wrong, good possibility. Is this the case? It doesn’t say cut and tape back the 12awg from pin 18 like in other locations. Last question or confirmation really, # 16 pin is deleted replaced by a 14awg fusible link from relay followed by a 10awg wire to ammeter. I should also say it’s for a 73 Charger.Thanks for reading and possibly replying!

View attachment 1529602

View attachment 1529603

I should also mention the top image is one from 73 manual bottom is from FBBO.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The thick wiring option was to be able to recharge the batt and get better and safer paths to feed everything bypassing partially the bulkhead. The 18 cavity use is to still feed the main splice into the cab coming from the engine bay.

the bottom diagram is the same than the top one which is the one I edited to remark in color this option.

I don’t recall the 73 diagrams I have saved on my PC (I don’t have the 73 FSM either) mentioning to despite the 12 gauge wires arriving to ammeter on 73 like earliers does. However that “should be” the ”correct procedure” in theory. BUT what I would do is keep the black one and despite just the red.

and in fact that’s what I will do on my car when reassembling. Why? Because on this way the main splice will be also reinfoced being sourced from two legs. This will keep safe also the #18 path.

The recharging battery loads is not the only problem but also the regular loads required from the car and the main internal splice. Hence why I keep the black existant 12 gauge wire up to the ammeter.

IMHO the fuse link running to the #18 path is really unnecesary. All the wiring arriving to the inner splice is already fuse or breaker protected individually per circuit, except the Ignition switch circuits and wires being spreaded up to fuse box and lights switch.

initially on the reinforce of my Charging network paths, I was keeping also the red one, fuse link included up to relay, but this is dangerous, because this keeps two fuse links on the run to the batt active and won’t really blow on a safe time with a big short coming up. All the load should go throught just one to be able to blow and cut the power coming from batt faster as posible.

will post a diagram of this later.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

This is what I will end making on my car when reassembling. Pretty much the same than the 73 diagram BUT instead keep hanging out the stock red amm wire down the dash, will simply remove the red #16 path on engine bay side. No need to cut and tape anywhere if making this.

the #18 path is being used from alt stud like factory did, but also splicing from there the thick parallel wire.

no need for a 8 gauge wire from alt stud if the load is already being spliced from the source. The 8 gauge wire on FSM diagram is used because the splice to the cab is made on the run of the 8 gauge wire for this option and the stock 12 gauge wire from alt is not being used. This wire or harness is made on that way from factory, but if adding on over the existant 12 gauge wire, 10 gauge from alt is pretty much enough for the new path and easier.

everything of this is also considering the #18 cavity terminals are still good and healthy. Need to check for that.

 

[Turbobus]

This is what I will end making on my car when reassembling. Pretty much the same than the 73 diagram BUT instead keep hanging out the stock red amm wire down the dash, will simply remove the red #16 path on engine bay side. No need to cut and tape anywhere if making this.

the #18 path is being used from alt stud like factory did, but also splicing from there the thick parallel wire.

no need for a 8 gauge wire from alt stud if the load is already being spliced from the source. The 8 gauge wire on FSM diagram is used because the splice to the cab is made on the run of the 8 gauge wire for this option and the stock 12 gauge wire from alt is not being used. This wire or harness is made on that way from factory, but if adding on over the existant 12 gauge wire, 10 gauge from alt is pretty much enough for the new path and easier.



View attachment 1529613

everything of this is also considering the #18 cavity terminals are still good and healthy. Need to check for that.

Thanks Nacho

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’ll be also using this quick disconect link loop, already available on 10 gauge. Got the longer as posible ( I think 2 feet long is available? Which should be enough ) to cut one long section able to reach the engine bay side straight from ammeter without any splice and use a short side to splice to the rest of wiring on engine bay side harness.

Fuse link could get in fact its bullet terminal paired to a bullet terminal on the red wire pigtail of the disconect link plug thanks to the starter relay location close to the firewall bulkhead area. So if the lenghts of this disconnect plug loop are correctly matched the only wiring splice required between diff wires actually could be the black wire of the disconect link to wire it up to the alt

this will allow to keep the disconnection hability for anything… service, fix, or whatever reason.

 

[Turbobus]

I’ll be also using this quick disconect link loop, already available on 10 gauge. Got the longer as posible ( I think 2 feet long is available? Which should be enough ) to cut one long section able to reach the engine bay side straight from ammeter without any splice and use a short side to splice to the rest of wiring on engine bay side harness.

Fuse link could get in fact its bullet terminal paired to a bullet terminal on the red wire pigtail of the disconect link plug thanks to the starter relay location close to the firewall bulkhead area. So if the lenghts of this disconnect plug loop are correctly matched the only wiring splice required between diff wires actually could be the black wire of the disconect link to wire it up to the alt

View attachment 1529618
this will allow to keep the disconnection hability for anything… service, fix, or whatever reason.

New fuse and terminal connector block along with new under hood wiring and connectors. Don’t know what Chrysler was thinking,,,,, those male terminal spades gave a built in thin area guaranteed to heat up just like your stovetop in your kitchen, Lol! Appreciate your help!