'63 Dodge 440 (383) A/C Compressor help

[DartGTDan]

Got a friend with a '63 Dodge 440 (383 cid) with (dealer installed?) A/C. Yesterday, when he started the car (to come out of winter hibernation) he said there was a loud screeching sound and the ammeter needle pegged to "C". He immediately shut the engine off. He loosened the alternator belt(s) tensioning bolt and was able to freely spin the alternator by hand (thinking maybe he had bad bearings in it). He started the engine again, for a few seconds, and the screeching was gone. At that point he telephoned me for some diagnostic help. I asked him if he was able to freely spin the A/C compressor by hand. It would rotate a bit, but then it would reach a point where it took a lot of effort to get it past that point. I think that may be his issue. I'm not an A/C expert, but it is my understanding, that the A/C compressor should be able to spin freely (almost invisible to the engine) until the driver selects to use the A/C. When the driver selects to use the A/C the clutches, on the compressor, engage and the belt(s) provide the drive to spin the compressor. He'd like to drive the car by simply using shorter belt(s) to go from the Alternator to the Crank pulley (vs. Alternator to the A/C compressor to the Crank Pulley) which would work in theory. However, after looking at that option, the shorter belt(s) appear that they would have to travel "through" the water pump (obviously not going to happen). He said there does not appear to be any way to get the alternator to pivot any lower to clear the water pump.

The correct thing to do would be to fix/rebuild the A/C compressor, but the A/C compressor is not the RV2 style. From what I remember, it appears to be more of a cube shape. And, if I remember correctly, there was a Philco(?) insignia on it.

Does anyone have any insight on this A/C compressor?

Anyone have any MacGyver/Roadkill methods for a quick/dirty fix to be able to drive the car?

 

[R/T Boy 67]

If the AC clutch pulley spins freely, with the AC off, then disconnect the wire at the compressor.

 

[R413]

Sounds like a York compressor. The clutch pulley should spin free. Then power energizes the coil and the compressor is engaged.

Usually you cannot bypass the AC compressor with a shorter belt for alt and crank, but this is aftermarket so it may be doable.

The car can be driven with the alternator belt off and just run off the battery and don't use and accessories. But that's hard on the battery.

 

[Dave6T4]

He could likely buy a new rotary Sanden compressor for less than rebuilding his old one. It sounds like it is a York, like Ford used on their cars. There are mounting brackets for the Sanden, that mount off the power steering brackets. This is what I have on my 440 (would mount the same on a 383).

 

[RJRENTON]

Sounds like a York compressor. The clutch pulley should spin free. Then power energizes the coil and the compressor is engaged.

Usually you cannot bypass the AC compressor with a shorter belt for alt and crank, but this is aftermarket so it may be doable.

The car can be driven with the alternator belt off and just run off the battery and don't use and accessories. But that's hard on the battery.

Sometimes, aftermarket or dealer installed A/C SYSTEMS use either YORK or Borg-Warner or Tecumseh 2 cylinder units. They use a unique valve hose assembly called a ROTO-LOC, and not the typical Mopar setup with Schrader type access valves. The Sunden type unit will require different mounting hardware and develop a new belt length.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON