'63 vs '65 727 cases

[fshd4it]

I have a rebuilt '65 small block 727, and I want to put all the guts into a '63 big block case. Am I going to run into any differences between the two?
Also, this trans will be going in a '63 Sport Fury. Will the '65 valve body play nice with the pushbuttons?

 

[Dave6T4]

'65 727 has a slip joint tailshaft. If you want to use this, you will have to bolt the '65 rear housing to your '63 case. If you want to still use your '63 ball and trunion driveshaft, just change everything forward of the tailshaft. The '65 valve body will NOT work with the pushbuttons, unless you change the rooster comb. I think the neutral start switch is different, too. The '65 valve body is like the '64 console shift one, in regards to rooster comb and cable adapter. Sometimes the 273 and 318 Poly transmissions only have 3-clutch drums, instead of 4-clutch.

 

[dvw]

Either VB will work if you swap the rooster comb, manual valve, and neutral safety switch from the 63 trans. If both valve bodies are stock you can just swap the entire valve body as well. Assuming both transmission are original 63 & 65. If the front drum is only a 3 clutch you can swap the 4 clutch drum from the BB trans without worry. Though you might want to use new seals or the seals from the recent rebuild trans. I have 4 clutch drums if you need one. also look at the lever ratio for the KD band. Use which ever one is higher.
Doug

 

[fshd4it]

I'm doing this for a friend, he wants a slip yoke trans in his '63 Sport Fury. I rebuilt the SB '65 several years back, but don't need it. The shorter/longer NS switches, are they matched with the comb, or is the hole for it in the case different? I always thought a complete '65 VB would work without issue in a PB trans, as the extra notch for park didn't matter? What am I missing that makes the rooster/manual valve/nss year specific? And the '65 already has a 4 clutch front drum (had one originally, actually), but with a 23 spline input shaft. I think the KD lever is a 3.2, I could use a 3.8 if that would be a better choice.

 

[dvw]

3.2 will work. If it's hopped up the 3.8 would be better. The land on the manual valves where the rooster comb fits in are different widths. The neutral switch prongs on the manual valves are different lengths as well. The case threads and depth are the same. All 3 pieces need to stay together for any given combo. Also there is a rib on the 65 output shaft abot 1" ahead of the splines. You need to trim a conventional yoke about 3/8" shorter so it doesn't bottom on that rib. A 10" cut off blade (Lowes) installed in a mitre saw works well. Though you have to take it slow.
Doug

 

[fshd4it]

I'm thinking I'll clean up the '63 VB and keep it in place. No point doing a bunch of parts swapping if I don't have to. I've still got the yoke for the '65 as well, but thanks for the trick on making a later one work.