64 Polara Floor Pan

[dryheat]

I have most of the tools however I have never attempted to do this before. Is replacing a floor pan something the average guy can do in his garage?

My plan is to use a complete pan from the firewall to rear foot well seams.

I am most concerned about how I support the body during the removal / install as the frame rails and torsion bar cross member would be disconnected from the pan. Is temporary cross bracing needed or would it just be in the way?

Any tips or techniques would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance ...

 

[Polara Pat]

I think that anyone with even moderate welding skills can tackle this job in their garage. That being said, I have had very little luck removing and re-using floor pans from parts cars. I highly recommend buying new replacement pans. You'll thank me later. One of the biggest chores of this job, I find, is the removal of the old rotted tin and prepping for the new panels. Our floors are all spot welded to the frame so every little "dimple" has to be drilled out. There are specialty bits for this job but you can use a regular drill bit with good success. Jack your car up on well supported axle stands and just tackle one corner at a time to avoid any body sag. Tis is also a great time to put your sub-frame connectors in if you plan on doing a bit of racing.

This is a big job, don't kid yourself. I usually give myself between 12 -15 hours per corner.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Time is money and I'm sure you are like the rest of us....more time than money. Just take your time and have at it.
Also I agree with polara pat, but if ya got good donor floor, then use it.

 

[dryheat]

I have several different sizes of spot weld cutter and I realize that getting the old pan out will be time consuming but certainly not impossible. I will be using a new 1 piece pan from AMD.

My real concern is about proper support to avoid the body sag mentioned above.

 

[roadrunnerman]

I would make sure that you have the car supported at the front rails,rear frame rails,the front of the rear frame, and maybe a 2x4 supported under each rocker panel. But make sure you take measurment before,during, and after you get the supports in place before you start drilling out the spot welds.

 

[wannadrag]

I would make sure that you have the car supported at the front rails,rear frame rails,the front of the rear frame, and maybe a 2x4 supported under each rocker panel. But make sure you take measurment before,during, and after you get the supports in place before you start drilling out the spot welds.

X2

 

[dryheat]

Change of plans ... I am going to be using the patch panels I have to repair the front foot wells on the drivers and passenger sides. I've done a lot of reading and viewing of various videos so I feel comfortable tackling this.

Can I get by just cutting / replacing the rust areas (one side at a time) without have to be too concerned about the car twisting too much?

The rust area does not extend to the transmission cross member and is generally located over the front frame rail area.

 

[eric383]

I did this last winter one at a time and had no problem with twisting. I used my air hammer with a chisel bit to separate the floor pan from where it is spot welded. Just be careful and don't attack it like a gorilla. Some of those spot welds can be a challenge to find. Then if anything is still attached hit it with a flap disc. Also protect your dash and windshield from grinding/welding sparks. Good luck.

 

[AMX364]

I had used blocks made up of 2x8 boards where the car sets at a natural stance with the weight on the wheels.

 

[dryheat]

I know everyone will find this hard to believe but while cleaning/inspecting my floor pan I came across some additional rusty areas that I hadn't seen before. Looks like a complete pan is in my future. OH BOY!!!