66 Charger Headlight Override Switch Delete

[Doorkicker]

I'm starting to think my override switch is having issues. New motors, new relays, light have opened and closed just fine for the last year or so. However, I don't use them that much.

Tried to use recently and the "stuck" open. After troubleshooting for a bit I just moved the override up and down vigorously, and bam... worked. A few months passed, I turned my lights on and same thing. However, this time moving the override up and down didn't help.

Now... I just want to delete the d@mn switch.

First, I'm making the following assumptions I'm hoping you can help me with...

1 - I'm assuming when the bypass switch on is ON it is providing the ground to bypass the limit switch. At least this is how it is portrayed in the diagrams. Therefore, when ON (engaged) is grounding the #2 terminal on the closing relay (correct?)

2 - I'm also assuming that when the switch on the dash is DOWN means it is ON, therefore when DOWN it is providing ground.


Basically, if the above assumptions are correct, then I can just cut the wire so that if the switch is "failed closed" the terminal is no longer receiving ground to keep the lights open.

OR

If the above is wrong, then I need to run ground to the wire because the switch "failed open" and the relay needs ground.

 

[Doorkicker]

For example, when "up" is this "off"... and does that mean it IS or IS NOT providing ground?

 

[Don Frelier]

Up is normal and the switch is normally closed.

It makes the ground in the up position.

Down opens the contact and the closing relay coil won't energise.

You can test by removing the plug and jumping.
But I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.

 

[Doorkicker]

Up is normal and the switch is normally closed.

It makes the ground in the up position.

Down opens the contact and the closing relay coil won't energise.

You can test by removing the plug and jumping.
But I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.

Thanks! So, technically speaking, I can ground that pole on the relay and if they close, there's a problem with the switch... correct?
I think the switch is damaged, hence not opening... I'm thinking I can at least test in a way to isolate if the switch is or is not the issue.

 

[Don Frelier]

The limit switches on the headlight doors are also in the "ground" side of that wire.
By grounding the wire from the relay you are bypassing those as well, so not necessarily proving the override switch is bad.
My bet is that it's not the problem. ( the door switches are more likely)

 

[twecomm]

Try disconnecting the override switch and use a jumper wire to connect the 2 wires the went to the switch together or not together which would simulate the function of that switch. If you are getting the same results as you initially describe that would prove if the switch is bad, but so would an ohmmeter across the switch contacts with no car wiring attached to the switch. Switch either has continuity or not..