66' Coronet Dash Cluster Removal

[magnumman]

New guy here. Just curious if any other 66/67 Coronet guys ever had to remove their instrument cluster. I'm starting that and just wondered that after the screws are out, knobs are off and everything is disconnected underneathe, does the cluster just roll out (top out first with the bottom rolling out last)? I want to install a new fuel gauge and a new clock. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Just starting to get frustrated. This site is great and I love the "B" Body! Don from NC

 

[bigblock]

Probably one side out first while disconnecting wires and light bulbs until you get to the ammeter,which the wire terminals are bolted to.

 

[YY1]

Take the radio out first.

Also much easier to loosen the column and drop it a bit.

Might be easier to disconnect the ammeter from underneath.

 

[oreduks]

Did you get the Instrument cluster out? I got as far as the screws and radio and speedometer cable. But it wont come out and I dont want to break the old plastic.

 

[Daliant]

Take the knobs off the heater controls too, also disconnect the round plug connector carefully before rolling the cluster out of the dash.
It does help if you unbolt the column from the dash and loosen the bolts on the firewall and let the column drop an inch or so, this gives a little more room and keeps the column from getting all scratched up.

 

[watermelon]

all good responses above

lay some tape on top of the steering column. there is a chance of scratching the top of the column


watermelon

 

[patrick66]

Simple procedure - *ALWAYS disconnect the battery!!!*

1) Remove the glove box guts (not the door) - this makes access to things easier.
2) Remove the radio knobs and then unscrew the two nuts holding the radio to the dash face. Push the radio back until it clears.
3) Take off the heater control tabs (with an Allen wrench). Push the heater (or heat/air) controls back. Cover or mask the top of the steering column.
4) Unscrew all of the dash face screws. Pull back far enough to undo the connections to the clock and the ammeter. Then you can remove the speedometer cable, then the multi-pin connector on the back of the printed circuit board. DO NOT FORCE THIS OFF OR PRY WITH A SCREWDRIVER! That circuit board is fragile and is 50+ years old!
5) Tilt the cluster assembly towards you from the top, then slide carefully to the right as you tilt. In MOST cases, you won't need to lower the column. Be patient, and do not force things. That's how you break things!

Installation is followed in reverse. Reconnect battery and test.

 

[SIX TO GO]

Simple procedure - *ALWAYS disconnect the battery!!!*

1) Remove the glove box guts (not the door) - this makes access to things easier.
2) Remove the radio knobs and then unscrew the two nuts holding the radio to the dash face. Push the radio back until it clears.
3) Take off the heater control tabs (with an Allen wrench). Push the heater (or heat/air) controls back. Cover or mask the top of the steering column.
4) Unscrew all of the dash face screws. Pull back far enough to undo the connections to the clock and the ammeter. Then you can remove the speedometer cable, then the multi-pin connector on the back of the printed circuit board. DO NOT FORCE THIS OFF OR PRY WITH A SCREWDRIVER! That circuit board is fragile and is 50+ years old!
5) Tilt the cluster assembly towards you from the top, then slide carefully to the right as you tilt. In MOST cases, you won't need to lower the column. Be patient, and do not force things. That's how you break things!

Installation is followed in reverse. Reconnect battery and test.

I’m blind and lost at step one.
Where are the glove box nuts?

I seem to be blind to where my nuts are…
Humor, but seriously, where in the Sam Hill are they?
Thanks

 

[Ruby67]

They are the (philips head) screws around the perimeter of the 2 cardboard glovebox pieces that attach them to the metal dash frame and each other.
Depending on what you want access to you may not need to remove them.

 

[SIX TO GO]

They are the (philips head) screws around the perimeter of the 2 cardboard glovebox pieces that attach them to the metal dash frame and each other.
Depending on what you want access to you may not need to remove them.

Thanks!
There wasn’t any such removal necessary for me on that. What it really was is that it was just really tight to pull out. I had everything disconnected. It just really had to be pulled on hard to come out and when the dash let it out it was fine.

 

[patrick66]

The re-awakening of a dead thread!

 

[SIX TO GO]

The re-awakening of a dead thread!

Yep.
FNG with a 66 Coronet that’s new to me. Boldly doing stuff I’ve never done before.

 

[patrick66]

Nothing wrong with that!